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'Colony Wall', the large cliff directly opposite 'Sweethearts Buttress' is hard to find, and apart from a few visits in the past is relatively undeveloped.


To get to 'Colony Wall' you must walk in, as this area is also under the jurisdiction of the owners of Applegrove who, as mentioned before, don't take kindly to climbers on their property. An alternative approach is to speak to the owners of 'Silverton' about access through their property. This is best done by contacting local climbers through the facebook page of the University of New England Outdoor Adventure Club facebook page (UNEOAC).

If approaching along the gorge rim, park at Yellow wall and walk past 'Pineapple Rough' until the bulk of 'Colony Wall' can be seen.

Due to the walk in this cliff has had few visits.

It is important to access the top of the cliff from the right spot in order not to spend ages finding the approach to the climbs. Find the point on the dog fence (high fence) where it is joined by a farm fence with a gate. Nearby there is a National Parks gate in the dog fence. The gully which leads to the Camp Cave (a good place to gear up) is here.The cave is near the bottom of the gully on the right (upstream) side. The high-point of the cliff is just below the cave and the upstream gully can be accessed by descending the slope below it in the upstream direction.

Descent notes

Just left of the monster overhang and the top of the Stazewski- Killip ramp is a vegetated ramp leading down leftwards (facing the cliff); this provides access to the lower parts of the left-hand end of 'Colony Wall'.



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Camp Cave Cliff
The Asylum Cliff
The Jungle Cliff


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Grade Route

Enjoyable, on clean rock.

Start: The first good line down the rocky descent ramp.

Mixed jambing and bridging off the vertical.

FA: J. Friend (Solo), 1981

There's a man-hole atop the chimney!

Start: Short recessed offwidth with black/grey granite at it's back -left of 'Colonial Daze'.

Chimney style to where cracks in the right wall provide sound holds. Up to chock stones and man-hole - swing out and around to either right or left hand deep crack finishes (.5m apart).

FA: J. Friend (Solo), 1981

Approach by way of the upstream gulley.

Start at left end of main cliff where it is possible to scramble up to a large terrace which leads right. Take the lefthand of the two obvious lines in the middle of the terrace.

  1. 45m Straight up the crack marked by a cairn. At top of crack step up and right onto dished slab.Up this to horizontal break, left and up to base of corner.

  2. 38m Up corner to about 3.5m where it closes down, hand traverse 2m right and up into next line. Up this to top. (crux)

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1995

Not the recommended finish to A & U.

  1. 35m (19) From the belay ledge on top of the 1st pitch of 'Angels and Us', head up obvious corner crack (3.5m), Traverse L above orchids for 5m (straight forward but poor pro), to base of vertical off-width crack (large cams). Up this & L onto blocky ledge. At L end of ledge head up vertical closing finger crack into base of fig tree. Sling this & traverse out left until clear of fig before topping out using one of two lines. Tree belay 10m back from cliff edge.

FA: Ben Vincent & Richard Curtis, 25 Jul 2014

Start at back of bay 5m right of 'Angels and Us'.

  1. Up into back of corner and continue up to terrace.

  2. Up easiest line behind tree.

Escape up descent ramp

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1995

Double ropes advised.

Start at right hand end of the ‘Orchid View Terrace’ below a curving, fingery layback crack.

  1. Climb over the first huge orchid patch taking care not to damage it and up the layback to exit left at the top. Traverse about 6m left then straight up to a one metre high flake and continue up to bulges. Left around rib to semi-hanging belay.

  2. Traverse Right, then awkwardly up onto a large ledge and then, at its right hand end up to a second ledge and a Kurrajong tree.

  3. Scramble to the top ... carefully!

(This was the scene of a near death experience for the first ascentionists when Curtis, scrambling up the easy exit, dislodged a block the size of a small fridge which trashed both ropes and missed Oddie’s head by about half a metre, hitting the Kurrajong tree to which he was belayed before disappearing into the void.)

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1996

Start at the left end of 'Broken Terrace' at the leftmost flake.

  1. (17) 24m. Up flake till it widens and an easy ramp leads off to the right. Step onto ramp and up this to belay.

  2. 26m. Climb onto pedestal behind belay. Traverse right and then up to below roof. Continue traversing to belay ledge.

  3. 10m Climb small easy overhang and move left onto 'Orchidview Terrace'.

Escape left where scrambling through 'The Jungle' leads to the bottom of descent ramp.

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1995

Accessed by abseiling 40m from the downstream end of the Orchidview Terrace.

First done from the ground up with several easy pitches to start. It could turn out to be pitches 5,6 and 7 of 'Facial Discrimination' but on the second ascent of SR a crucial hold was broken off (perhaps explaining the one grade difference).

  1. Straight up to huge chockstone and belay as for Tiny Tips.

  2. Straight up and move left into shallow corner after about 5m. Follow this to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1995

Mixed and varied climbing up the center of the main wall.

Start; From the descent gully go right to the bottom of the main wall. The clean layaway corner.

  1. 20m. Up crack to join large crack on right, continue up to tree belay.

  2. 10m. Walk right to tree and up thin crack below "cat's tongue block" to the ledge on right.

  3. 20m. Up vegetated chimney/gully, right of belay and continue through fig tree to belay.

  4. 25m. Traverse left along treed ledge to belay below two converging cracks with a large block wedged at top.

  5. 15m. Up right hand crack, under block to belay atop the block.

  6. 25m. (crux) Up to base of off-width then up thin left crack up to ledge and ramp to belay under small roof/cave.

  7. 10m. Up through roof and follow crack left to large ledge and tree belay.

  8. 50m. Leftwards up ramp over blocks and continue to start or rock ramp, then right to good ledge.

  9. 30m. Move right and around corner to intermittent crack system. Follow this to obvious ledge.

  10. 10m. Follow ledge left and up dirt slab to base of off width immediately right of huge orange roof, then left to tree belay.

  11. 15m. Up small corner and crack trending left to diagonal crack and under cling and roof to top.

FA: J. Lattanzio & B.Birchall alt, 1982

Start - Abseil from the gum tree at the bottom of ‘Orchadia’ for about 40m to ‘Broken Terrace’. Scramble right (facing cliff) past the obvious line of ‘Surprising Rising’ to the obvious corner crack, overhung at its base.

  1. 30m up awkwardly into layback crack and up this to top.

  2. At back left of the bushy terrace is an easy ramp leading diagonally left. Climb to top of this and traverse left to end of ledge.

  3. (exit) Downclimb for a few feet until it is possible to move left to beneath a small overhang. Climb this to the Orchidview Terrace.

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1995

Start from same belay as 'Surprising rising'.

  1. 17m Climb the right-hand crack below the huge chockstone. Squeeze behind the chockstone and belay.

  2. 5m Descend to tree belay.

  3. Up curving crack to leftward leaning ramp. Climb nearly to the top of this but exit up short finger crack on right wall to ledge.

Exit right. Finish by pitches 2 and 3 of Sailors of the Sun.

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1996

Start. Approach by abseil from the point where the cliff starts to lose height at the downstream end. Abseil to a terrace with a steeply overhung corner crack at it’s right-hand end.

  1. approx. 35m Climb the corner to an awkward rest where it eases to vertical. Make a difficult move back into the line and continue to the top.

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1996


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