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Description

'Colony Wall', the large cliff directly opposite 'Sweethearts Buttress' is hard to find, and apart from a few visits in the past is relatively undeveloped.

Approach

To get to 'Colony Wall' you must walk in, as this area is also under the jurisdiction of the owners of Applegrove who, as mentioned before, don't take kindly to climbers on their property. An alternative approach is to speak to the owners of 'Silverton' about access through their property. This is best done by contacting local climbers through the facebook page of the University of New England Outdoor Adventure Club facebook page (UNEOAC).

If approaching along the gorge rim, park at Yellow wall and walk past 'Pineapple Rough' until the bulk of 'Colony Wall' can be seen.

Due to the walk in this cliff has had few visits.

It is important to access the top of the cliff from the right spot in order not to spend ages finding the approach to the climbs. Find the point on the dog fence (high fence) where it is joined by a farm fence with a gate. Nearby there is a National Parks gate in the dog fence. The gully which leads to the Camp Cave (a good place to gear up) is here.The cave is near the bottom of the gully on the right (upstream) side. The high-point of the cliff is just below the cave and the upstream gully can be accessed by descending the slope below it in the upstream direction.

Descent notes

Just left of the monster overhang and the top of the Stazewski- Killip ramp is a vegetated ramp leading down leftwards (facing the cliff); this provides access to the lower parts of the left-hand end of 'Colony Wall'.

Tags

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Camp Cave Cliff
1
1
15m
1
The Asylum Cliff
5
2
20m
1

Routes

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Grade Route

Enjoyable, on clean rock.

Start: The first good line down the rocky descent ramp.

Mixed jambing and bridging off the vertical.

FA: J. Friend (Solo), 1981

There's a man-hole atop the chimney!

Start: Short recessed offwidth with black/grey granite at it's back -left of 'Colonial Daze'.

Chimney style to where cracks in the right wall provide sound holds. Up to chock stones and man-hole - swing out and around to either right or left hand deep crack finishes (.5m apart).

FA: J. Friend (Solo), 1981

Mixed and varied climbing up the center of the main wall.

Start; From the descent gully go right to the bottom of the main wall. The clean layaway corner.

  1. 20m. Up crack to join large crack on right, continue up to tree belay.

  2. 10m. Walk right to tree and up thin crack below "cat's tongue block" to the ledge on right.

  3. 20m. Up vegetated chimney/gully, right of belay and continue through fig tree to belay.

  4. 25m. Traverse left along treed ledge to belay below two converging cracks with a large block wedged at top.

  5. 15m. Up right hand crack, under block to belay atop the block.

  6. 25m. (crux) Up to base of off-width then up thin left crack up to ledge and ramp to belay under small roof/cave.

  7. 10m. Up through roof and follow crack left to large ledge and tree belay.

  8. 50m. Leftwards up ramp over blocks and continue to start or rock ramp, then right to good ledge.

  9. 30m. Move right and around corner to intermittent crack system. Follow this to obvious ledge.

  10. 10m. Follow ledge left and up dirt slab to base of off width immediately right of huge orange roof, then left to tree belay.

  11. 15m. Up small corner and crack trending left to diagonal crack and under cling and roof to top.

Activity

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