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Access issues inherited from Yellow Wall

The access is on private land (the property of Silverton). As of 2009, the owner was Richard Waters (02) 6775 3755. He was fine with, and even encouraging having climbers driving through his property. He just asks that you phone ahead. As in all rural areas, leave gates as you find them and drive slowly through livestock. If you see anyone at the properties make sure you stop and say G'day. Future access depends on good relations with these fine folk.

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Approach

From the car park on the hill go through the small, metal gate to the gorge rim. Admire the view and then follow a faint trail down the gully to the left. This is the Descent Gully. All the routes here are on the left side of the gully (facing downhill) and described from left to right.

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Ethic inherited from Yellow Wall

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The first route in the descent gully. Mike's brothers York and Eric were there too! Start: The wall 3m left of 'Humble Pie'.

Up the wall, past 3 BR's. Third bolt is a difficult clip - makes it that little more exciting. Belay on ledge (medium friends and wires) and walk off right, or... continue up hand-crack to top (grd. 18)

FA: Ben Christian & Al Stephens, 1993

Rather awkward and strenuous.

Start: The first obvious crack in the descent gully.

Awkward fist jamming to top.

FA: A Legler, E Sharp & G Pritchard, 1980

Conceived, cleaned and bolted by Al. Stephens only to be knowingly stolen by Tadpole and co. on a climbing trip down from Brisbane.

Start: About 5m right of 'Humble Pie'.

Up past 4 B.R.'s to a ledge, then up past 2 more B.R.'s to the top.

FA: T. Ball & D.Hockley, 1989

The obvious crack immediately left of Arms Race.

  1. Climb through bouldery start to good pro in crack and up this moving right after half height and up to top.

FA: carol lee & Richard Curtis, Sep 2015

Gentle start, but gets nice and pumpy towards the top.

Start: Rightward trending corner crack immediately right of 'Evil Angels'

Diagonally right, taking care of rock and protection, to base of vertical crack. Up crack, step right and on to top ( crux).

Note: On the first ascent Brian climbed from a rest directly up the vertical crack, involving a sequence of moves about grade 22/23. The first free ascent stepped right beneath the short headwall and up to top. First free ascent of the complete route with direct finish by Carol Lee 22/08/15.

FA: Brian Birchall, R. Clark & E. Sharpe, 1981

FFA: Mark Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1982

FFA: carol lee, 22 Aug 2015

Start: 3m right of 'Arms Race'.

A short slabby wall then join up the cracks through two small roofs (2 B.R.'s, #1.5 friend and wires on route ).

Crank up slabby wall (crux) past two B.R.'s, then up through two small roofs trending right to final vertical seam. Up seam and finish as for last moves of 'Arms Race'.

FA: Al Stephens, 1994

Activity

Check out what is happening in Descent Gully Cliff.