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If you know where this cliff is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Access issues inherited from Yellow Wall

The access is on private land (the property of Silverton). As of 2009, the owner was Richard Waters (02) 6775 3755. He was fine with, and even encouraging having climbers driving through his property. He just asks that you phone ahead. As in all rural areas, leave gates as you find them and drive slowly through livestock. If you see anyone at the properties make sure you stop and say G'day. Future access depends on good relations with these fine folk.

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Approach

To get to the Lower Main Wall, follow the Main wall to the entrance of the gully that goes to 'Agent Orange Sunset’, but, instead of going up the gully turn downhill and continue left until the next cliff-line is found. This is the Lower Main Wall. Routes are described from left to right.

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Ethic inherited from Yellow Wall

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Does not go to top.

Start: Below a half-height diagonal crack.

Up to hanging block, left and up groove to ledge, then right up diagonal crack to belay. Abseil off or down-climb to the left.

FA: Al Stephens & Jill Kelman, 1975

The first pitch is rather dangerous with some loose rock on it. Take care with your placements.

Start: On the ledge up-hill and 15m left of 'Pin Up'. The thick flake; done in two pitches to reduce rope drag.

  1. 10m (crux) Up crack and past flake and right to belay.

  2. 10m Up corner crack to overlap and up right-hand crack to top.

Abseil off.

FA: B.Birchall & J. Lattanzio, 1982

Hard and gnarly. One of New England's hardest crack lines. Can easily be split into 2 pitches at the ledge.

Originally all aid by R. Dixon and A. Stephens in 1976. M. Colyvan and G. Croft freed it up to the ledge in '81 and P. Bayne and A. Stephens freed the remainder in July 1982.

Start: 5m left of 'Gnome Tree', the left of two cracks.

Follow intermittent crack and shallow comer to ledge then take the superb, sharp finger crack to the top.

FA: R. Dixon & Al Stephens, 1976

FFA: Paul Bayne & Al Stephens, 1982

Tricky, sustained and simply superb.

Start: The crack/seam immediately right of 'Pin Up'. Follow the crack to the ledge then on to top.

FA: Paul Bayne & Al Stephens, 1982

Start: The crack about 8m right of 'Magnifascent'.

Up the crack to overhanging section, then detour left up slab and crack to bush belay.

FA: B. Killip, J. Kellman & B. Birchall, 1975

Loudly marked 'D.D.D.' (Originally named 'Debbie Detour Direct').

Start: As for 'Debbie Detour'.

Straight up the line, ignoring the detour, and on to the Gnome tree.

FA: B. Killip, 1975

Start; Corner off-width just right of 'Gnome Tree'.

Strenuously up off-width to awkward exit onto ledge.

FA: B. Killip, 1976

Sustained and varied climbing up a steep wall. This climb has a reputation for not having many repeat ascents - not for want of people to try it!

Start: 8m right of'Shady Lady'.

Up thin seam trending left to rightward trending crack, some exciting moves up to leftward groove past one B.R. to top.

FA: Cal Dale, John Lattanzio & Richard Curtis, 1983

A dangerous lead.

Start: The arete right of 'Sundance'.

Up the arete via a B.R.. Some cute moves.

FA: K. Lindorff, M. Wust & Richard Curtis, 1984

Start: The slabby lay-away corner 10m up and across right from 'Enfant Terrible'.

  1. 20m Up lay-away line, then on up chimney to large ledge.

  2. 7m Around right, then up chimney (this pitch is contrived and rarely repeated).

FA: P. Prior, Al Stephens & B. Killip, 1975

A rather deceptive climb. Well worth doing! Start: As for 'Chequer Board'. The slab below the flake crack.

Haul up onto the arete/slab, then easily past two B.R.'s. From here step up delicately past the third B.R. to belay on the ledge.

Abseil off or finish up C.B.

FA: Gordon Low, S. Ireland, C. Fiddyment & Brian Cork, 1993

“If you go out on the rock today, you're sure to get a surprise"

Hard and sustained climbing.

Start: The cracks about 20m right of 'Zussamen'.

Follow overhanging cracks to top.

FA: Paul Bayne & M. Colyvan, 1981

FFA: M. Colyvan, 1981

A wall lay-back and jam crack........ it's got it all. Take small wires, #'s 1, 1.5 &2 friends and 3 bolt plates.

Start: 3m right of Teddy Bears Picnic'.

Crank the wall (B.R.), then strenuous lay-back (wires and 2 B.R.'s ) leads to a short jam-crack.

Clip the chains and abseil off.

FA: Al Stephens & Gordon Low, 1993

A Curtis testpiece.

Start: As for 'Dynamic Bureaucrat'.

Awkward to roof, then strenuously through roof to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & J. Killip, 1976

Start: 5m right of 'Teddy Bears Picnic', below the overhanging crack (The Push).

Up comer to ledge, traverse right along ledge to thin flake. Up flake, through the small roof and open corner to top.

FA: Al Stephens & R. Dixon, 1975

A fine climb for a sunny Sunday morning (most parties do the direct start)

Start: 10m right of 'Dynamic Bureaucrat'.

Awkwardly onto ledge, then up a tricky corner followed by superb climbing to top.

FA: R. Dixon, A. Stephens & Al Stephens, 1975

A bouldery direct start to Sunday Morning Energy.

Start: Directly up from where climb is marked, then awkardly onto ledge, up a tricky corner followd by superb climbing to top.

FA: G. Croft, E. Sharp & M. Colyvan, 1981

Excellent wall and slab climbing leads to a set of chains. 4 B.R.'s on route.

Start: 4m right of S.M.E.

Gently up a steep wall (crux) past a B.R., then swing up onto the flake and haul up the next wall (2 B.R.'s) on beutiful jugs, then up the final slab (B.R.) to chains.

FA: Gordon Low, 1993

Start: The crack 1m left of 'Social Misfit'.

Up the crack the step right to the flake and haul up the next wall (2 B.R.'s) on beutiful jugs, then up the final slab (B.R.) to chains.

FA: S. Whitten & C. Fiddyment, 1993

Start: The large flake/block left from 'Fugitive'.

Up outside or inside block, left around corner, up block to free.

FA: Jill Kelman, C. May & Brian Birchall, 1975

Start: 30m right and uphill of 'Social Misfit'.

The left of two cracks. Up to tree belay.

FA: M. Colyvan & G. Croft, 1981

Nasty on the hands.

Start: The crack immediately right of 'Fugitive'.

Pull up to rest below obvious leftward trending crack. Up crack and step left to exit at top.

FA: J. Friend, B. Birchall, R. Thomas & R. McClymont, 1978

A death-trap, full of loose, crumbly rock.

Start: The left-hand crack in the chossy alcove immediately right of 'Portable Rip-off.

Awkwardly up hanging channel and up crack, keeping to the left.

A real gem, with a secret jug to dangle off and pose for photos.

Start: Corner crack 10m right of 'Portable Rip-off.

Jam and bridge up crack to belay off gum-tree further back.

FA: C. Fiddyment & Gordon Low, 1993

Just brilliant. Thin and technical face climbing.

Start: The thin flake and wall 2m right of 'Wee Dangler'.

Up the thin flake past the first B.R. Clip the second B.R. and step out right onto the wall, then move up to clip the third B.R. off a good stance. Step slightly left and haul on up to the top. Belay off gum-tree further back.

FA: C. Fiddyment & Gordon Low, 1993

FFA: Gordon Low & Al Stephens, 1993

Activity

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