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Description

'Broken Terrace' is accessed by abseiling from a tree on the 'Orchidview Terrace' at the base of 'Orchadia'.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start at the left end of 'Broken Terrace' at the leftmost flake.

  1. (17) 24m. Up flake till it widens and an easy ramp leads off to the right. Step onto ramp and up this to belay behind the pedestal.

  2. 26m. Climb onto pedestal, and step onto main cliff. Traverse right and then up to below roof. Continue traversing and belay below extreme right-hand end of overhang. This belay avoids the rope drag which is almost inevitable if the last two pitches are done as one.

  3. 10m Climb the crack through the small easy overhang and move left onto 'Orchidview Terrace' to belay.

Escape left where scrambling through 'The Jungle' leads to the bottom of descent ramp.

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1995

Accessed by abseiling 40m from the downstream end of the Orchidview Terrace.

First done from the ground up with several easy pitches to start. It could turn out to be pitches 5,6 and 7 of 'Facial Discrimination' but on the second ascent of SR a crucial hold was broken off (perhaps explaining the one grade difference).

  1. Straight up to huge chockstone and belay as for Tiny Tips.

  2. Straight up and move left into shallow corner after about 5m. Follow this to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1995

Start from same belay as 'Surprising rising'.

  1. 17m Climb the right-hand crack below the huge chockstone. Squeeze behind the chockstone and belay.

  2. 5m Descend to tree belay.

  3. Up curving crack to leftward leaning ramp. Climb nearly to the top of this but exit up short finger crack on right wall to ledge.

Exit right. Finish by pitches 2 and 3 of Sailors of the Sun.

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1996

Start - Abseil from the gum tree at the bottom of ‘Orchadia’ for about 40m to ‘Broken Terrace’. Scramble right (facing cliff) past the obvious line of ‘Surprising Rising’ to the obvious corner crack, overhung at its base.

  1. 30m up awkwardly into layback crack and up this to top.

  2. At back left of the bushy terrace is an easy ramp leading diagonally left. Climb to top of this and traverse left to end of ledge.

  3. (exit) Downclimb for a few feet until it is possible to move left to beneath a small overhang. Climb this to the Orchidview Terrace.

FA: Richard Curtis & John Oddie, 1995

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