Reality Wall Mostly Trad climbing9 routes in area
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Get directions to here using Google Maps.
Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge
Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766
Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727
It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).
Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.
This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:
As for Dome Wall to where the vehicle track you are walking along descends into the little valley/gully. From here head off right and contour around right (facing gorge), then descend a little until you are on top of some good looking steep rock. There is a rubbly ledge on top where you leave your gear and abseil off trees to the base. You can also reach it by walking upstream from the top of Dome Wall.
This area was discovered by Austin Ladler in April 1980 while nile swing around from Sweetheart’s buttress, which was the In Jon crag at the time. During that year he picked off the two obvious crack-lines, ‘That Slick Little Crack’ 16 and ‘Layaway Reality’ 17.
Despite having only two routes Reality Wall still managed to attract a few people to repeat ‘Layaway Reality’ which was to become somewhat of a local classic. On one such trip, visitor ?? Staszewskl noticed the slab to the right of ‘Layaway Reality’ and almost managed to top rope it with Al Stephens and Ed Sharp. Then began the talk and speculation about the slabs until eventually Stephens bolted the slab to the right of ‘Layaway Reality’ and ??? bolted a steeper route right of ‘That Slick Little Crack’. However Paul Colyvan (alias Animal) was to get in on the act before either of the above two routes were climbed by doing the obvious??? corner and slab right of Al’s route to give ‘Short back Slides’ 22 in January 1985. The next day Stephens climbed his route to give ‘Iron in the Soul’ 21 and Sharp, after attempting his, gave it to Animal, who completed it, producing ‘Rant and Rave’ 23. Another route added since was also by Animal who returned to add ‘Sudden Impact’ 22
The existing routes are of such high quality I'm sure it will always see visitors. It’s proximity to both 'Dome Wall' and 'Sweethearts' makes it an ideal venue for half a day here and half a day at either of the other two crags.
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