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Description

This is the large terrace that runs beneath the upper level of cliff line and although can be reached from either the upstream or downstream decent gullies, it is most easily reached by the upstream decent gully, or else abseiling in to the route you want to do.

The upstream decent gully is located about 15m left of the main lookout area at the top of the cliff, as you face out into the gorge. Follow this down and around right below the first small cliff and you are at the right hand end of the Flight Peck. Routes are described right to left.

Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge

Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:

Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766

Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727

It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).

Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.

This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Dome%20Wall%20Etc%20Access.kmz

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start: At the bottom of the V-chimney below the obvious roof about Om right of Dogmatic Demise’ on the extreme right hand end of the flight deck.

Up V-chimney, step left under roof, then follow crack through roof to top.

Start: The second crack along with a shark—edge finish.

Up fist crack to ledge on right. Then either directly up fine cracked corner (17) or off-width / fist crack (crux) to roof and exit on left.

FA: Joe Friend, Brian Birchall & Phil Prior, 1978

Start: The third crack along, right of ‘Dogmatic Demise’. Up crack to top, coloured twin cracks (alternative finishes).

FA: Joe Friend, Brian Birchall & Phil Prior, 1978

Start: 10m right of ‘Running on Empty’ on the ledge below the obvious sickle shaped crack.

Move left along ramp, up wall to crack, up this and more wall to top

FA: Tim (Tadpole) Ball & Russell (Chunder) Chudleigh, 1985

Very sustained and hard crack climbing (mostly).

Originally aid through the first roof then a couple of rests up higher but was freed on it’s second ascent by Bayne and Colyvan with a bit of yo-yoing on 1/8/82,

Start: To the right of ‘Charisma’.

Through fists roof, up crack through second roof, up overhanging rightward trending crack past fixed wire then up wall to top.

FA: Paul Bayne, 1982

Can you believe it, a really enjoyable off-width roof?

Start: below obvious leftward under-cling roof, left of 'Running on Empty'

Around roof then follow off-width and squeeze chimney to top.

FA: Paul Bayne & Greg Croft, 1982

Start: Abseil from marked tree 15m north of top of Dome wall down to ledge atop of 'Charisma'

Up the wall past 2 bolts to tricky exit up faint groove at the bead of wall, continue up slab to top.

FA: Chris Dale & John Lattanzio, 1983

Technical and sustained second pitch.

Start: About 10m left of ‘Charisma

  1. 12m Up slab trending right into corner crack and up to tree on large ledge.

  2. 20m (crux) Up obvious intermittent cracks and into wide crack to top.

Start: The obvious hand/fist crack with a small roof just to the left of ‘Aisle of Deceit

  1. 10m Up crack through small roof to belay on left.

  2. 20m As for final pitch of Bunker Hill’.

Start: At the base of the hand crack 2m left of ‘Pregnant Paws

Rightward trending crack to small ledge, then straight up large ledge and tree belay Finish up 'Tipsy' or 'Bunker Hill'

On the ledge above ‘Drunk and Disorderly’, 3m right of the final bit of ‘Bunker hill’.

Up thin crack in the face then wall and slab to top with a bolt runner shortly after crack ends.

FA: Paul Bayne & Brian Birchall, 1983

Historic, being the first climb on this cliff. (At the time the prevailing ethic was that a 'legitimate' climb had to start at the bottom of the cliff and finish at the top.) Contrary to the guide, the first pitch is well worth doing and is the equal crux. Exciting for a leader at that grade, but makes the climb very escapable. - Not one for sport climbers or those of a delicate disposition. Second pitch is a 'walk' and pitch 3 is a struggle.

Approach: If skipping the first pitch start pitch 2 from the Flight Deck. Otherwise - towards the lowest part of the centre of the crag look for a 'cave-like overhang'.

  1. 17m. (equal crux) Exit the overhang and climb the crack to a ledge.

  2. 15m. Easily follow crackline up left side of gully then step right onto ledge to below obvious crack.

  3. 20m. (equal crux) Up crack to top.

FA: Bob Rugo (1), Richard Curtis (2 & 3), 1976

A Mafia inspired enterprise by ‘Don’ Jack.

Start: On the ledge next to the start of ‘Tipsy’. Abseil in or get to the start via ‘Drunk and Disorderly’ or 'Pregnant Paws’.

Start up pitch three of 'Bunker Hill' for 2m then move left past bolt into the obvious overhanging Corner. Up corner to join 'Severence Pay' arête. Up this past 2 bolts to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, Al Stephens & Richard Thomas, 1986

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