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Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge

Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:

Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766

Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727

It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).

Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.

This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:


This area is reached by either abseiling down from the trees on top of the cliff (by the lookout area) or scrambling around right from the bottom of ‘The Gates of Moria’ gully. Inexperienced climbers and beginners are advised to use roped protection for the step across from the gully to the short chimney, as the soil in the gully has become quite unstable at that point, and a slip would have serious consequences.



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Grade Route

Start: Rap into the ledge halfway up ‘The Gates of Moria’ from the chains on top of ‘The Gremlin’ buttress. The climb starts from this ledge and goes up the right wall of the gully.

Clip the bolt then an awkward move to start to pull across onto the wall. Move right and up to a second bolt then up to the small roof and around this past a third bolt, then follow the rightward trending seam up past another bolt to the arête. Easily to top. Chain belay plus a bolt down lower where the climb meets the arête.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Tim (Tadpole) Ball, 1998

This area is reached by either abseiling down from the trees on top of the cliff (by the lookout area) or scrambling around right from the bottom of ‘The Gates of Moria’ gully. Though not technically difficult, roped protection is advised for beginners and inexperienced climbers for the sketchy step from the gully into the short chimney, as the bottom of the gully has become quite unstable.

3m left of Working Class Heroes up vertical crack and through shrubbery. Then continue up tiny tips crack. 1982 is complete guess for FA

A Classic looking crack.

Start: The obvious diagonal crack line on the left hand side of the terrace.

  1. 30m (crux) Strenuously climb the diagonal crack, (After about 20m the crack rounds a corner and becomes vertical). Up for a few metres and belay in sentry box.

  2. 12m Up open groove, small roof and easier crack to top.

FFA: Al Stephens, P. Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981

Start: from the sentry box atop of pitch one of ‘Working Class Heroes’.

From the sentry box belay step left onto the wall and crack. A hard crank right, then back left overcomes the blank section.

FA: Russell (Chunder) Chudliegh & Tim (Tadpole) Ball, 1985

A real grunt!

Start: The chimney to the right of ’Working Class Heroes’.

Scramble up gully to above tree and good ledge. Follow crack up left wall of chimney

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1981

Start: As for ‘Prehistoric Sounds’ to ledge above tree. Follow the off-width crack on the right up through a bulge and then more easily on to top.

To the right is a sketchy step around to get to the right side of the Spider Terrace.

A rather attractive wall. Double ropes useful.

Start: About 3m left of ‘Rise of the Bourgeoisie’.

Up slab to ledge then straight up wail above past bolt, then head diagonally right over easier ground, then up to a second bolt up and slightly left past two more bolts then run it out a little straight up the slab above. Easily up exit crack.

Start: On the right hand end of the terrace

  1. 15m Up the hand crack to a ledge then continue up to a slight corner. Belay

  2. 15m (crux) Up the corner and delicately onto slab when crack runs out, then easily to top.

FA: R. Clark, Al Stephens & Brian Birchall (alt leads), 1981

Start: As for ‘Rise of the Bourgeoisie’.

  1. 22m Up the hand crack and mantle onto the ledge. (Possible to split pitch and belay here to avoid rope drag and improve communication with second). From right hand end of ledge, climb the corner crack until it is possible to move rightwards around the rib to a terrace belay.

  2. 15m Up rightward trending crack on right hand end of ledge. When crack runs out continue past bush and up grassy gully to belay below chimney.

  3. 10m (crux) Up easy angled, rightward trending crack, then thin crack to top

Start: As for 'Rise of the Bourgeoisie'

  1. 15m As for pitch one of 'Rise of the Bourgeoisie', belay on the ledge on right, below dome.

  2. 15m (crux) Up thin crack splitting the wall below the dome then traverse out left and belay in groove.

  3. 10m Easily up slab and crack to top.

A hard bouldery short route.

Start: From the top abseil down to the base of the chimney between the dome and the main cliff (on the left side). It is the steep slab just left of the chimney.

Up slab past two bolts

FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987

A superb line up the left arête of the dome, giving sustained hard climbing.

Start: At the base of the dome on the left side. Either Abseil in or do 'Labour Force'.

Up the left aide of the arête past a bolt runner then swing around right and up past three more bolts to top with another bolt at top. Tie off trees on mainland for anchor.

FA: Mikl Law, Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987

The arête between 'Corridors of Power' and ‘Bunker Hill’.

Start: On the right hand end of the ledge atop pitch 1 of ‘Labour Force’.

Step right off big block onto wall past bolt runner; up and across right to arête which is followed past 2 more bolts to top.

FA: Paul Bayne & Paul Colyvan, 1983


Check out what is happening in Spider Terrace.