Site navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge

Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:

Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766

Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727

It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).

Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.

This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Dome%20Wall%20Etc%20Access.kmz

Approach

This area is reached by walking down the downstream descent gully, which is on your right as you look out into the gorge from the top of the cliff.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

‘‘I’m no thickie”

Start: Below the obvious orange roof on the right side of the descent gully, as you walk down.

Up to cave, bridge to surmount roof, then strenuous jamming to top.

FA: Bob Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981

A classic.

Start: Opposite ‘Billericay Dickie’ on the left side of the gully (as you walk down) are some slabs facing out into the gorge. Start at the base of the obvious crack on the left side of the slab. Originally 20 M1 with a couple of points of aid, this was progressively whittled away by Stephens, then Bayne then eventually freed’ by M. Colyvan and E. Sharp I8/6/H

Up crack to where it thins down and goes diagonally rightwards, follow crack into gully and rap off chains atop of 'That’s Entertainment'. Al Stephens

FFA: Mark Colyvan & Ed Sharpe, 1983

FA: Al Stephens, Ed Sharpe & Mark Colyvan, 1983

Interesting and well protected climbing up the ‘Bang Bang’ wall. start: About 3m right of ‘Bang Bang’.

Up onto large blocks to clip the first bolt, then step right onto the slab, up and past another bolt to the crack of ‘Bang Bang’. Cross this and head straight up the wall past 2 more bolts to the top. Belay/rap chains in place.

FA: Mark Colyvan, John Lattanzio & Anthony Brennan, 1986

Originally had two points of aid, the first being the second bolt. The aid was almost eliminated by Paul Bayne and was eventually freed by Giles Bradbury May 1983. It is now one of New England’s it most popular hard free routes.

Start: Sm right of ‘Bang Bang’ at rightward trending groove.

Follow groove right, then back left past bolt runner into corner, up to second bolt and on to ledge and belay/rap chain. Note that both bolts are usually clipped with wires first these days.

FA: Brian Birchall, John Lattanzio, Paul Bayne & Mark Colyvan, 1982

UNKNOWN? Not in orignal guide

This poor excuse for a climb should be cemented up... actually it’s probably a good route for visiting Queenslanders to do.

Start: About 10m right of ‘That’s Entertainment’ below big ugly 3 chimney.

  1. 20m Up the cleft on the right wall as for ‘The Gremlin’, a tussle with chock stones lands one before the gates.

  2. 20m Jump into bottomless cavern and squeeze upwards (usually) in total darkness to a sandy grotto.

  3. 5m Several overhanging mud pull-ups to top.

FA: Chris Dale & Paul Bayne, 1998

A classic although is best to rap in from the top to avoid the horrid chimney leading up to it. Rap into semi-hanging belay from chain on top.

Start: as for ‘The Gates of Moria

  1. 22m Scramble up into chimney then to undercling leading past bolt, then up into layback then step right at arête to belay at chains at horizontal crack.

  2. 15m (crux) Up face and arête to top past 3 bolts to chains.

FA: Greg Croft, Paul Bayne (alt leads) & Al Stephens, 1982

Activity

Check out what is happening in Bang Bang Wall.