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Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge

Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:

Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766

Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727

It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).

Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.

This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Dome%20Wall%20Etc%20Access.kmz

Approach

This area is reached by walking down to the ‘No strings Attached’ area and abseiling from an obvious tree leaning out over a lower cliff line. This is in fact the lowest point of the ramp leading down here. The corner just to the right of the abseil is ‘Autumnal Beauty’. A quick scramble down and around to your right (as you face out into the gorge) past a set or chains brings you ‘La Cucaracha’.

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Routes

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An excellent climb with good protection, although it can be a little awkward to place.

Start: A thin crack in the wall 5m right of ‘Autumnal Beauty’.

Up past the bolt at 4m to a small ledge. Continue straight up the crack to just below the small tree. Traverse off left to the abseil tree.

FA: Al Stephens & Simon Gay, 1984

Start: directly beneath the corner.

Directly up to the crux of ‘Autumnal Beauty’.

FA: Ed Sharpe & Brian Birchall, 1981

Step right below the roof and up to top.

FA: Ed Sharpe & Brian Birchall, 1981

A superb route originally done with a couple of points of aid below the roof, these were freed by M. Colyvan and P. Payne 2/8/81

Probably best done with the direct start.

Start: Just right of the abseil down, below a crack just left of the obvious corner.

Another variant: Step right below the roof and up to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1981

Start: The same direct start as ‘Staggerlee’ added by the Killips.

Up offwidth chimney to ledge then straight up offwidth to crack going straight up to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Brian Birchall & Ed Sharpe, 1981

This route originally started by scrambling up to the first ledge; however Bob and Astrud Killip added the direct start in April 1981.

Start: Just left of chains.

Up offwidth chimney to ledge, continue up offwidth then swing left onto ledge. Up easy hand and fist crack to top.

FA: Brian Birchall, Geoff Francis & Pod KcClyrnont, 1978

Start: Around to the right of the the base of La Cucaracha. (On the upstream side of the buttress).

Up thin cracks to join ‘La Cucaracha’ near the top, continue up crack.

FA: Paul Bayne & Mary Roulston, 1982

A classic, intriguing and varied

Start: The crack/corner (leftward facing) around left from the chains atop of ‘Backlash’.

A thin crack, then a short chimney, out over a bulge, then a long traverse right and up easy crack to finish.

FA: Ed Sharpe, Mike Peck & Al Stephens, 1981

Starts at either JB or LC depending on your fancy. Unlike the first ascensionists it's best to break this route into two pitches to avoid rope drag and snagging ropes under sharp flakes.

  1. (crux) (30m). Up to obvious overlap and traverse L through top/bottom cracks to beginning of vertical crack. build semi-hanging belay.

  2. (15m) Up vertical crack and through off-width chimney to finish. Tree belay.

An absolute joy.

Start: As for ‘Eat it G-Man’.

Up the slab past two bolts, over a bulge, then up the open corner past another bolt to a short slab to finish.

FA: Al Stephens, Greg Croft & Paul Colyvan, 1983

A fall from the slab could be serious.

Start: 2m left of ‘La Cucaracha’ at a tree.

Up the first short slab heading slightly left to the ledge, then straight up the slab past a bolt runner to an overlap. Move left here and then pull up onto wall and continue up past 2 bolts to top.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987

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