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Description

This area is more or less at the same level as the ‘Brut’ area and can be reached by either scrambling down and around right from ‘Ambrosia’ or else a fifty meter abseil from the abseil tree atop of The Middle Tier, down slightly right will get you there.

The obvious hand jam crack left of a chimney/culvert is ‘Master Blaster’. ‘Inner Limits’ and ‘Astonished into Ovulation’ are a little lower down to the left from here and actually finish on the terrace where ‘Brut’ etc start.

Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge

Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:

Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766

Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727

It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).

Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.

This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Dome%20Wall%20Etc%20Access.kmz

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start: From ‘Master Blaster’ follow the gully down to the very bottom of the cliff and turn right (facing gorge).

  1. 12m (crux) Up fingery crack, walk right across large ledge. Up wide crack and follow easy flake (ignore grass filled off-width) over block to large ledge.

  2. 25m Up sore fingery cracks to ledge at base of ‘Bleat’.

FA: Ed Sharpe & Murray Hewitt, 1981

Start: Right and up from 'Inner Limits'; obvious straight thin crack.

Up crack to ledge below ‘Bleat’.

FA: Evelyn Leis & Louise Shepherd, 1982

A lot harder than it looks.

Start: At base of orange cracks to the left of chimney/culvert.

Easy climbing to hand jam crack. Awkward and strenuous from there to top.

FA: B. Clark & Brian Birchall, 1982

Start: The wall 3m right of ‘Master Blaster’.

Up the wall to the ledge, follow small ledges and good holds to the main crack, up this to top.

FA: John Lattanzio & Anthony Brennan, 1986

?????

An excellent flake crack on pitch two

Start: As for ‘Biggus Grippus’,

  1. 27m As for pitch one of ‘Grave Reservations’.

  2. 37m (crux) Follow crack right for a few moves then up the thin crack leading up to a roof. Go right around roof and follow the flake crack up rightward to another roof. Move up around roof then more easily to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1981

One-point of aid near the top of P1 eliminated by Colyvan & Bayne 25/7/81.

Start: As for ‘Biggus Grippus’.

  1. 25m (crux) Up chimney as for 'Biggus Grippus' then follow thin crack line on the left to ledge.

  2. 25m Up ramp on right and careful climbing over large loose block into fine corner crack. Finish as for ‘Biggus Grippus’.

FA: Al Stephens & Brian Birchall (alt leads), 1981

FFA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1981

Start: Chimney to the right of 'Master Blaster'.

  1. 25m Up chimney, then crack to smell ledge. Move right to small ledge and belay.

  2. 25m Up crack, move right to face and delicately move left again a little higher.

FA: Al Stephens & P. Clark, 1981

Start: 2m right of ‘Grave Reservations’, the overhanging orange Corner.

  1. 20m (crux) Tip overhanging corner, then move left mid up groove to ledge.

  2. 20m Up corner then gully to finish as for Grave Reservations.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Evelyn Leis, 1982

Unfortunately the first pitch is the only worthwhile bit of climbing on this route. Perhaps if a rap station was put in after the first pitch it might get more ascents.

Start: About 5m right of ‘Female Frenzy’ is a short rightward diagonal finger crack.

  1. 17m (crux) Up diagonal, then continue up through some manic to a ledge.

  2. upwards going rightwards where possible to avoid the mank. It finishes on a treed terrace on the right.

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FA: Paul Bayne & Mark Colyvan, 1981

A classic case of fine crack climbing.

Start: At the bottom of the slabs quite a way right of ‘Uncertain Future’ .You can either walk across from the previous routes or walk down from the top via the upstream descent gully.

  1. 15m Up chimneys and wide cracks

  2. 15m More of the same

  3. 10m Up rightward trending diagonal behind bush.

  4. 20m From open slabs, up right hand flake then up left to small ledge.

  5. 20m Across wall on right to tree, then right under roof; off-width and fig tree on right.

  6. 20m (crux) Out under roof to lip and up to one inch cracked roof, then up to scooped ledge.

  7. 10m Steep crack to slab and -jut to left.

FA: Phil Prior, Brian Birchall & Joe Friend, 1978

A variant to ‘Face Value’.

  1. 15m As for ‘Face Value

  2. 15m As for ‘Face Value’. belay under overlap.

  3. 10m (crux) Move left, under-cling then jam to large ledge.

  4. 25m Up easy looking chimney and exit onto the Flight Deck.

FA: Al Stephens & P. Clark, 1981

Activity

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