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Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge

Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:

Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766

Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727

It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).

Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.

This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:


This area is on a lower level still and is reached by abseiling from the chain atop of ‘Backlash’ which is just right of the start of ‘Staggerlee’.



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Grade Route

Start: About 12m to the left of ‘Brut’, the obvious flake crack.

Up flake crack, swing right when crack runs out; slab climbing to terrace.

FA: Rob Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981

Start: About half way between ‘Agrippina’ and ‘Brut’.

Straight up wall which steepens at the top past four bolts, moving off left or’ the slab at the top.

FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987

Pertaining to champagne of high quality, not the nasty animal.

Start: The fine layaway crack left of ‘Bleat’ and 'Ambrosia'. (not the horrible offwidth).

Fine jamming and layaways to top.

This route was first climbed by Jill Kelman and Richard Curtis in 1976 but was not recorded because the prevailing ethic locally at the time was that a climb had to ascend the cliff from bottom to top to be a legitimate ascent. As Jill subsequently died in a European mountaineering accident I suggest that the climb be called Jill's Climb as it was a fine lead for the time. I mentioned this to Brian while he was still with us and the idea was received favourably.

FA: Rob Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981

Start: As for ‘Bleat’.

Up as for ‘Bleat’, right past tooth, then traverse past off-width of ‘Blurt’ and further right to hand crack to top.

FA: Fred Frome & Kevin Pearl, 1982

The line ‘Bleat’ should have been.

Start: As for ‘Bleat’. Up diagonal crack as for ‘Bleat’, then right around spike and through tree and up off-width to top, with little protection.

FA: Paul Bayne & Paul Colyvan, 1982

Some aid rests on the first ascent were eliminated by M. Colyvan, B. Birchall and B. Sharp 15/3/81

Start: The obvious rightward leaning off-width. Up crack to large spike, then swing left and finish up the final section of 'Brut'.

FA: Al Stephens & P. Clark, 1981

Classic thin face climbing.

Start: About two metres left of ‘Ambrosia’.

Clip fixed wire with a stick then over bouldery start to the finger crack. Up this to a bolt then continue up wall past another bolt to a third bolt. Move left and up to a fourth bolt, then left and up again to chain on top.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1987

“Food of the Gods” - an Armidale classic.

Start: About 15m right of ‘Bleat’ a short ramp leads up right to a fine crack. Up ramp into vertical crack; fine and technical climbing to top.

FA: B. Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981


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