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Description

This area, although a little hard to find from the top, is unmistakable once you’ve found it. The identifying feature is ‘Overkill’, a long rightward leaning crack/corner. To gat there just walk straight down the hill below 'Diabolique' to the top of the next cliff. Bore you will find a pinnacle separated the main cliff by a chimney and a boulder bridge at the top.

'Vallium Vision' climbs the downstream side of this pinnacle and from the top of it you get a good view of the top pitch of 'Overkill'. Abseil down the pinnacle to get to 'Vallium Vision'. About 40 downstream abseil off a tree, with a chain at eye level, to get to the terrace on which 'Overkill'. Alternatively walk straight down the hill from 'Autumnal Beauty' and keep traversing straight across.

Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge

Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:

Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766

Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727

It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).

Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.

This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Dome%20Wall%20Etc%20Access.kmz

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start: As for ‘Overkill

  1. 20m As for Overkill’

  2. 20m (crux) From belay head out diagonally left onto wall (no protection) and up to horizontal crack, lip past bolt runner to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1982

Another classic from the same team that gave you ‘Prehistoric Sounds’.

Start: At the extreme right hand end of the terrace that ‘Biggus Grippus’ finishes on.

  1. 20m Traverse right and up to a good stance below roof. Move up diagonally right past bolt runner to roof then around right to ledge. Bolt and nut anchor.

  2. 30m (crux) Follow flake crack to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1982

On the pinnacle opposite ‘Overkill’, above ‘Face Value’. Abseil in from the top of the pinnacle to the belay stance below the crack on the downstream side of the pinnacle.

Climb the crack moving left past the bolt to the second crack, and on to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio & Russell (Chunder) Chudleigh, 1985

Activity

Check out what is happening in Overkill Area.