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No Strings Attached Buttress

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 1
4
AU

Description

This small buttress is located below the top cliff line and is reached by walking down the downstream decent gully right down a towards ‘Pagan Paradise’, then follow the ramp/terrace further down diagonally left (as you face the gorge) below a chossy vegetated small cliff. Towards the bottom of the ramp on your left is a cliff of better quality; this is No Strings Attached buttress.

Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge

Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:

Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766

Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727

It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).

Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.

This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Dome%20Wall%20Etc%20Access.kmz

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start: Up and left of ‘No Strings Attached’. Scramble across into corner, hand traverse under roof, around roof and up to top.

FA: Paul Bayne & Al Stephens, 1981

Start: Below crack with a large tree growing in it.

Up crack until it expires then step right onto ledge, up short slab to roof then step right again to another ledge. Up corner crack to finish.

FA: Brian Birchall, Mark Colyvan & Ed Sharpe, 1981

Start: 1-2m to the right of ‘No Strings Attached’.

Easily up through blocks to tree; pleasant climbing through small roof to top.

FA: Brian Birchall & Ed Sharpe, 1989

A classic short jam crack

Start: right of ‘No Strings Attached’.

Small roof and then crack to finish.

FA: Rob Clark & Al Stephens, 1981

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

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Tue 18 Apr
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