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Psychosomatic Wall

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Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Approach

Further downstream from Inertia, approximately 50 m, is a short, steep wall with a Casuarina tree at the right hand end. The thin crack up this wall is 'Psychosomatic'.

Descent notes

From the chains, walk right behind the shrubs and skirt across the slab for about 20m and don't try to get down too early.

©

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Routes

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Short man’s climb (The Gnome strikes again!)

Arête left of 'Psychosomatic'. Up crack, onto arête past 2 bolts to top.

FA: Al Stephens, 1993

The crack next to the Casuarina, the right hand end of the wall. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Intermittent thin cracks lead to a wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains.

A hidden cave problem on excellent rock. A long traverse which starts easy and progressively ramps up to the crux where you turn vertically and exit out the chimney without touching the block behind you.

FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 26 Aug 2023

Start on the side pull and using the side block as a step (eliminating this will be very tough). Delicate crux right off the bat through the slopers and then progressively easier the rest of the way up, and then left to the shared anchor.

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Thu 20 Apr
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