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Roadblock Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 21

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Description

Just behind Mad Woman’s Breakfast, near the end of the descent track is a dry water course. The prominent feature of this area is the wasp wall. Just to the right of the wasp wall, upstream from the wall, is the first route in this area, Roadblock.

Just after the descent track turns into what could be better described as a gravel slippery-dip, veer left and traverse to the large blocks .Walk through the tunnel to get to the start of the routes. You are now directly above Roadblock.

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Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Routes

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Just after the descent track turns into what could be better described as a gravel slippery-dip, veer left and traverse to the large blocks .Walk through the tunnel to get to the start of the routes. You are now directly above Roadblock.

Alternatively veer left before the track starts to steepen and rap off a tree.

Start: The edge of the Chimney/Passageway.

Layback the chimney and on up to top.

FA: Brian Cork, 1994

Start: The diagonal seam to the right of the passageway as you walk out.

Follow the seam out to the arête, then up the arête to the top.

FA: C. Colmer, Brian Cork, F. Hagan & T. Hill, 1994

Start: the first route on the wall as you come out of the passage.

Up the wall passing a bolt then up cracks to top.

FA: Brian Cork, C. Colmer & K. Mc Alpin, 1994

Start: The arête right of S.B.

Up arête/wall past two bolts and some natural protection to the top. Belay off tree further back.

FA: Brian Cork & C. Colmer, 1994

Start about 2m from the left end, just right of the wasps (which are not aggressive). Up through the horizontal breaks, then through the technical face past 2 hangers.

FA: Gordon Low

Start: A short overhanging wall that eases to a slab. One BR.

Strenuously through the little overhang, then a rising rightward traverse past a BR to belay. Walk off. Protection is difficult to place on the traverse.

FA: Paul Bayne, Al Stephens & Greg Croft, 1982

Start: Approximately 6m right of Roadblock.

A wall/corner with an off-width finish. Not a good route.

Up over horizontal jam cracks, then diagonally right to ledge. Either belay or continue up offwidth on right to top. Take a large tube or better still, don’t do it.

FA: Joe Friend & Greg Croft, 1982

Start: The corner near a river oak right of Another One Bites The Dust.

Up corner crack to slanting roof, right onto edge, then right up flake crack.

FA: John Lattanzio & G. Pritchard, 1981

Start: The arête right of Jail Bait.

Up arête, finish as for Jail Bait.

FA: Ed Sharpe, M. Peck & T. Balla, 1982

Start:- A few metres right of All the Young Punks at an obvious diagonal corner. Pitch 1. Straight up the corner, stepping right at about half height then right again just above. Finish up sharp crack. (Can be split into two short pitches if desired).

FA: Richard Curtis, 1977

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Mon 24 Apr
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