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Description
North
The high north facing cliff, clearly visible from the Threlfal loop track which has a lookout opposite on top of 'The Fortress'.
©Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge
Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:
http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park
Approach
Steep hike
30-45 min
Can be approached ground up from the river however, the base can be quite a weedy bush bash.
WALK IN: From the Gara car park, head south passing Tank Boulder and Crack Boulder crossing Powers Creek. Cross a gate at roughly -30.603763, 151.796476 and follow the fence line crossing another two smaller creeks. Continue following the fence line crossing another gate at roughly -30.604498, 151.802941. Continue following the fence line south passing another small creek. Once past the creek trend slightly south east towards the scramble in at roughly -30.607105547, 151.808515127 or head towards the top of the cliff for the rap in.
DRIVE IN: This access requires land owner's permission, instructions for same are on the description of 'Dome Wall'. After you turn north at the cattle yards keep heading north through another gate. Follow dual track until you get to a dam at roughly -30.609010, 151.804565, then turn east just before it continuing for another 300m and park at a set of large boulders at -30.60833672 151.80759513. Walk another 200m north east to the top of the cliff.
If it is your first time visiting it would be better to rap in via the top of the cliff and scramble out as the scramble in can be difficult to find on your first visit.
To rap in find a pair of rings at the top of the cliff above Chicks Dig Scars, do a very short rap onto the ledge directly above Chicks Dig Scars and then rap again off either the Chicks Dig Scars anchor (east side) or another anchor above Green Jam (west side).
©Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge
Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.
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