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Description

This group of small buttresses directly above the water is located about 100m downstream from the Sea Cliff, directly below the Fortress and the Bastille.

The first buttress has four established routes.

The ledges at the left end of the Kitchen provide a fine bivy out of the rain with great natural shelves to cook on (hence - the kitchen) as well as placements to hang your light from - quite cozy really! The routes from 'Keep Outta Kate's Kitchen' on are on the buttress 20m downstream.

©

Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: The corner 3m right of Get Nuked.

Up the corner to the left-leaning diagonal. Along this until it tops out with “Get Nuked”.

FA: Al Stephens & Gordon Low, 1997

Lead and named by B. Briner in ‘95.

Start: The obvious right leaning hand-crack.

Up the crack with a hard move to see you at the top. Belay in break.

FA: Paul Bayne (solo)

FA: Lead & named by B. Briner, 1995

Start: The line up the face left of Get Nuked.

Two bolts protect the upper half. Up the face (Friends in breaks) to the bolt and interesting crux, past second bolt and up to top.

FA: Gordon Low & Matt Rizzuto, 1998

A little contrived - try to ignore the temptation to step on the ledges.

Start: The incipient seam that goes up just right of the Kitchen ledges. 2m left of “Lean Cuisine”.

Up the seam with some tricky gear to the final moves. Reach left onto the ledge for a siderunner before committing to the final belly-flop.

FA: Ross Hinckley, Gordon Low & Scott Clelland, 1996

Start: The left leaning crack on the right side of the upstream face.

Up crack with a tricky move at the top. Belay can be tricky to arrange.

FA: Gordon Low & B. Briner, 1995

Technically only about grade 18. Gets the extra 2 for tricky gear and the chance of a “Zipper”.

Start: The left-leaning diagonal seam 1m left of the arête left of K.O.K.K.

Up thin seam to shelf and good gear, then up nice crack to top out and belay in cracks.

FA: Al Stephens & Paul Bayne, 1999

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Kitchen.