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Facing downstream from the Kitchen you can see a prominent buttress approximately 100m downstream on the left side of the river, just upstream of the old powerhouse site. It consists of lots of large boulders stacked up together. In some places you can see through to the other side. There is one route here.


Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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Grade Route

Start: At river level, at a cascade at the end of a small pool. The line wanders, hence the short pitches.

  1. 23m. Up steps, a ramp and a corner to a large ledge.
  2. 17m. Left, up flake and into strenuous bottleneck chimney.
  3. 13m. Up body crack. Move right below long curving crack.
  4. 20m. Start up crack then move inside, chimney up and out to ledge.
  5. 10m. Up steep wide crack and wall to top.

FA: Al Stephens & Brian Birchall (Aid moves on pitch 5), 1975

FFA: Brian Birchall, 1976


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