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Scultpure garden

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 5min
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 29

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Description

This area is full of large water sculpted rocks, some of which are only possible during drought.

Same approach as Moonscape area, but when you drop into the creek everything is immediately in front and to the left / downstream, while moonscape is to the right / upstream.

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Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

This almost subterranean area had been long overlooked or dismissed but yields a number of quality contorted unique problems. It is immediately in front about 20m as the track turns to slab, under and around the tallest boulder in the area.

A cruisy little layback problem

Sit start and slap up the right leaning short spire

FA: Brendan Heywood, 3 May

The left deep pit. Layback / offwidth / chimney out of the pothole.

FA: Ben Vincent, 3 May

In the right side of the pit facing north, sit start and up the arete, duck under the chockstone without touching it or the back wall and up to freedom.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 3 Mar

Start jammed in the chockstone and up the back wall without touching the front wall.

FA: Ben Vincent, 3 May

This start further back / down / under the first 2 pits. Up jam crack and then grovel through the triangular exit.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 3 Mar

Starts 1-2m of Evacuation station on the great flake. Up flake, into horizontal roof crack and then grunt around the rooflet into the open. A stellar jamming test piece.

FA: Ben Vincent, 3 May

Just right of space jam?

In a pit with a wedged tractor tire. Poor feet, good crimpers, line up the top out.

Start on and mantle through the chunky knob. Beware of the slippery casuarina needles.

Downstream 20m from where the track pops out is an iconic boulder shaped like the "palatine uvula" aka the dangly thing in the back of your mouth.

Up the middle of the left void, weird funky moves

As for OUAS but bridge high in roof and top out above.

FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 20 Nov 2017

Unique! Start sitting inside the bulb facing right, bridge out right to arete and up

On the right side are a couple slopers with really high feet. Probably won't be that hard but very committing over the water

Easy one move problem, needs to be fairly low water level.

This easy warm up is the usual descent off the back. A nice no hands slab balance problem.

A classic mantle problem. Start on the flat slab at the back, which is usually under water.

These blocks are 10m behind and upstream (or instream rather) of the Palatine uvula bloc and usually partially submerged.

Only accessible during bad drought.

Sit start, up blunt nose then dyno to lip without swinging into the water.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 31 Aug 2019

Sit start semi-hovering over water, up fun rail.

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