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The holy land

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Description

In the middle of the cascades area is a cool rock with a big hole worn right through it. Just to the left of this is a short wall with a bunch of quality easy problems on it. This is one of the best places for new climbers or for a good warmup. It's also often shady by mid arvo.

Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Routes

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Up the easy rail and then bust out right

Up left on rounded rail

Easy juggy layback

Slimpers with great feet to mantle

Easy wide crack

SDS on finger locks then up crack

Start as for 'Cracked vessel', then along the rail, then traverse the rest of the face avoiding the top

On the far left is a hard sit start with an underling

Start in slightly flaring jam and go up left

FA: Brendan Heywood, 30 Oct 2018

Start in slightly flaring jam and go up right

FA: Ben Vincent, 30 Oct 2018

Could be a finger crack, a gaston mantle, or a powerful layback. Complete the set!

North east about 15m is a slabby arete

Very delicate moves up the right face and the arete

FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Nov 2019

Directly above the holy wall is a boulder with most features on the far (downstream) side.

SDS then left and up

Low campus start, work left and then desperately up right

This is 25m south east of the main wall and usually partially submerged.

Up the face using the right high foot and small left gaston

FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Nov 2019

Up the right side of the wall, use the arete for easy warm up

Up the uncling feature and spine to top.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 4 Nov 2019

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