Ascents of Heaving Falcons

Outrageous route, highly challenging

Very pleased to get to the end of the roof clean, and following an attempt and a rest, pull through the crux and place some pro. For whatever silly reason the three of us forgot to pack the large #4 and #5 cams and so I was happy to retreat above a #3 before the flaring off-width using our fixed static. A really good route, may even warrant 25.

Arvo mission mostly doing support. Bloody hot so mostly hunkered in the shade until dusk when I wasn't belaying. Yoyo lead the first section ok but a bit flash pumped. Traverse wore me down, and the roof just felt totally impossible. Jumared out and then ruined myself hauling gear and belaying Ben up on horrendous drag

FFA. It's because of routes like this why I love trad. What a bunch of frothy sickness! Had such a good time on this route. It has a bit of everything, laybacks, jams, a roof, and and off width to boot! Felt better at the top than my last attempt. Take medium to large and extra large cams and plenty of slings to avoid rope drag. Thanks for the catch and the psych Skippy!

Utterly stoked to second this clean, one of the hardest brawls I've had with a route. The first layback gets you warm quickly. Was able to rest properly this time in the first roof, busted across and then managed to find an almost comfortable full lie down rest with a knee bar holding me in. Pulled the lip expecting to pop and just held on breathing hard and trying to slow down for the rest. Just lay down for 5 mins at the top trying to breath and not dry retch

Wow, what a battle. I think I spent a few hours on this and had a few cracks at the lip before getting it. Just when I thought it was going to be all over the off-width began and had me taking off plenty of skin and wishing I took a camel back. I was cotton mouth and utterly spent at the top and loved every minute of it

Wow! The chossy start is a little off-putting but this thing is great quality after that. The traverse is good, the roof crack is great, pulling the lip is an utterly sick move getting almost inverted, and the sustained offwidth after that is just plain sickening I laybacked most of the offwidth cause that's how I roll, but it burnt me out, when I finally dragged my arse over top I wanted to chuck. Rope drag was bad, needs lots of long slings.