Routes in The Carpet

Start: Towards the middle of the slabs, a rightward trending crack, heavily vegetated.

1. 15m Up crack, trending right to tree belay.

2. 25m Follow line right to belay on top of a large loose flake.

3. 30m Direct to top.

Start: At the far left of the slabs (broken slabby area). An obvious leaning crack.

1. 25m Up corner crack to tree belay.

2. 25m Straight up slab to top (unprotected).

Not a bad route if you ignore the second pitch and walk off leftwards after the corner.

Start: at the prominent corner at the left-hand end of the slabs.

1. 22m (crux) Up fine left-hand corner/crack past tree at half height. Up the short slab to roof.

2. 12m Up cracked roofs and right to obvious triangular overhang (the ‘crypt’). Struggle through this and up lichenous slab to top and tree belay.

Start: to the right of the small gully just right of ‘Xerxes’.

1. 15m Up cracked wall, exit out hand crack to big ledge.

2. 38m Up, leftwards at first then right to belay on easier rock.

3. 12m Up the moss carpet to top blocks.

Start: The outstanding thin edged right hand hanging flake, with a perpetual wet streak at it the start.

Up wall to thin part of flake, up flake to trees.

Start: An off-width left-hand corner crack.

1. 15m Up off-width to tree.

2. 40m Up remotely thin cracks, right then left and out.

Start: Overhung crack line opposite ‘Country Bumpkin’.

Up crack trending to offwidth.

Not the name of a song, a word of advice!

Start: At the base of a crack-chimney about 6m to the left of ‘Darius’.

1. 30m Up crack trending left to obvious pillar. Up crack in pillar to belay ledge.

2. 30m Delicately up slabs, trending slightly left to below roof. Move left to belay. Little or no protection in this pitch.

Start: on the terrace where the second pitch of ‘Nicomodes’ starts. At a small alcove l0m left of ‘Use Your Face As An Ashtray’.

Up right to large shrubby ledge, left on easy ground and up to some runners. Up trending right, keeping right of slight headwall to trees.

Start: Some 30m left of ‘Deceit’ on terrace.

1. 7m Up crack to belay on trees.

2. 43m Straight up undulating rock to top (probably little or no protection).

Start: At the very top of the cliff above the finish of ‘Use Your Face As An Ashtray’

Up wall to right of crack to huge flake, around flake to top.

Start: about 3m right of ‘The Last Laugh’ on block.

Step off the block and up right, then back left to first bolt. Up through overlap and second bolt, then trend right past 2 more bolts then up and back left to ledge. Scramble left along ledge to chains atop of ‘The Last Laugh’.

Start: The brown water streak 2m right of the corner 'Don't Knock the Rock'. Abseil in from a tree marked by a cairn, to the obvious ledge.

1. 25m Up past 2 bolts, up the flake trending right, then left to belay.

2. 20m Up the streak past bolt, then continue padding to top.

Start: A clean black strip up the low angle slabs up and left of ‘Stop In The Name Of Love’ on the Persian Carpets. About 15m right of ‘Ataxerxes’.

Up the black strip of slab with no protection.

Start: 2m right of ‘Post Crypt’ at the left-hand end of ‘The Carpets’. Marked.

Step off the blocks, up the slab past 3 bolts to the alcove at the top. Walk off left.

Start: Solo up ‘Darius’ for 4m till the first ledge.

1. 50m (crux) Up and left to tie off shrubs. Step back down, then up past 6 bolt runners to a poor belay off shrubs on ledge.

2. 20m Straight up to flake and small roof. Pull on to slab and right to arete arid easy ground to top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Moral Decline’.

Up past 3 bolts to hanging block, move left to belay.

Start: 1m right of ‘Post Crypt’ corner. The first water streak.

Straight up the water streak past 4 bolts, using a few edges on either side till the last bolt, then padding to the top. (#2 & #3 friends for belay in alcove). Walk off left.

Start: A few metres up and left of ‘Post Crypt’. Marked.

Up the left side of the arete past 4 carrot bolts to a tree belay. Walk off.

Start: On the ledge above 'Xerxes'. Either do 'Xerxes' or a double abseil from the top.

1. 40m (crux) From the left-hand end of the ‘Xerxes’ ledge, straight up the waves of granite via 6 bolt runners to a belay in a scoop with 2 bolts.

2. 45m Step left from the belay, then straight up the steep headwall past a bolt runner, then up the slabs past another bolt to the top, Tree belay.

Start: 12-15m right of ‘Xerxes’, a flake 1m high.

1. 20m (crux) Up the slab past 2 bolt runners to a ledge/scoop. Up the wall above past 2 more bolts then move right 2m to a bolt then straight up to ledge. Double bolt belay.

2. 30m Up and slightly right to a small bush via a bolt runner. Right across easy ledges/ramp then up short steep wall past 2 bolt runners to belay. Double bolt belay.

3. 45m As for the second pitch of ‘Endless Vacation’.

Take 7 quick-draws and bolt plates and no other gear for this.

Start: 12m left of ‘Nightmare on Elm Street’. A slabby lay away that leads to a steep wall.

1. 45m (crux) Layaway up slab arête, then up steep wall on big jugs to less steep wall and smaller jugs, then easy slab and right to chains. 6 bolt runners in pitch.

2. 45m From chains move left 2m then straight up the waves of slabs to double bolt belay. 5 bolts in pitch.

3. 8m Easily up ledges past one bolt runner to top and tree belay.

Start: A few metres left of ’Nightmare on Elm Street’.

Up slab past 10 bolts to chains. Rap off or finish up ‘Flesh Dance’.

“The last laugh should last forever”.

Start: The steep slab about 5m down right from ‘Moral Decline’. Marked and with a bolt anchor at the start.

Up the slab past 4 bolt runners to chains on the ledge.

Start: About 4m left of ‘The Perfect Crime’.

Up slab going slightly leftwards down low and then back right up higher to steeper ground. Up steep wall then straight up above over easier ground to chain belay of ‘The Perfect Crime’. 5 bolts on route.

Abseil off or continue up ‘The Perfect Crime’.

2m right of ‘Flesh Dance’.

Up to very thin flake (BR), then head right and up to the top of the flake to a second bolt. Continue up the corner (some natural protection is needed for this section) then clip bolt, step left and up steep head wall. Another bolt then easier ground to the chains of ‘The Perfect Crime’. Gear required: 6 bolt plates and quickdraws, #6 rock, & #2 friends.

Start: 6m right of ‘Darius’, a diagonal crack.

1. 10m Up diagonal crack, then straight up to ledge to belay (wires and friends).

2. 20m Out left, up to bolt runner, up then left, then up and back right, then straight up to belay (large tree). Four bolt runners for this pitch.

3. 30m (crux) Through headwall past 2 bolts, up slab past 2 nre bolts and shaky flake to belay left of bush. Bolt belay.

4. 20m Up narrow brushed streak past two bolts to top.