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Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge

Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:

Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766

Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727

It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).

Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.

This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Dome%20Wall%20Etc%20Access.kmz

Approach

The climbs are described from left to right.

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Routes

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Buy one of these and you get absolutely free, air-conditioning, cassette/radio, 12 months supply of petrol, a block of flats on the Gold Coast... .plus Tasmania!

Start: The most left-hand route on the cliff, 5m left of ‘Look Ma No Hands’.

Up the ledges (wire placements) to a bolt runner. Up the slab to the South coast of Tasmania (friends and small wires). Over the overlap via Launceston, then straight up past Burnie to a short steep wall, then to top.

FA: Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988

A good route spoilt only by a chipped hold.Take 4 bolt plates, a 1½ friend and a 4 friend.

Start: About 4m left of 'Skid Row'.

Mantle up ledges, then delicately up the ramp, then straight up the water streak, finishing up the last moves of 'Country Bumpkin'.

FA: L. Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988

Another good slab spoilt by a chippie. Take 4 bolt plates and #2,#3,#4 friends

Start: Left of ‘Country Bumpkin (about 15m), the water streak slab.

  1. 30m (crux) Straight up the water streak, easy at first then hard after last bolt. #2&#3 friends for belay.

  2. 10m Move left 5m then up last moves of ‘ Country Bumpkin’

FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988

“I’m a country member.” - “Yeah I remember”.

The direct line to the layback of ‘Country Bumpkin’.

Start: A few metres right of ‘Skid Row’.

  1. 30m Straight up to layback flake via 3 bolt runners. Up layback to tree belay on ledge (take care the tree is dead!).

  2. 10m (crux) Straight up slab past two bolt runners, and wall to top.

FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988

Start: At almost the very base of the descent gully.

  1. 10m Up slab to lefthand corner.

  2. 20m Up lefthand corner, left easily then up right to base of flake.

  3. 15m Up flake then vegetated crack to below final block.

  4. 15m Left until you can get onto the scrubby top.

FA: Joe Friend & Richard Thomas, 1978

Shit Hot! Take 3 bolt plates and some small friends and wires.

Start:5m right of ‘Country Member’s’ last pitch. Abseil in to tree.

Up water streak slab, step up onto the arête, then up the arête / slab past 3 bolt runners and a wire placement to the top.

FA: L. Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988

Don’t bother.

Start: About 3m right of ‘Country Bumpkin’.

  1. 25m Up layback crack then wander across terrace and up to tree below corner.

  2. 20m Up corner/offwidth and leftwards to tree.

  3. 20m Up slab and corner as for ‘Lay Back and Enjoy It

FA: Mark Colyvan & Ed Sharpe, 1981

Start: Below and about 5m right of ‘Country Bumpkin’. A deep, wide crack on a low angled face.

  1. 20m Up the crack then scramble up to right angled corner.

  2. 20m (crux) Up the corner crack then scramble to tree belay.

  3. 20m Up the short steep wall then low angled corner crack.

FA: Al Stephens & E. Sharpe, 1980

Start: Abseil in to the ledge beside ‘Lay Back and Enjoy It’. Approx 4m right of ‘Salad Days’.

Up the wall between ‘Layback and Enjoy It’ and ‘Reefer Madness’ past 3 bolts then step left onto ledge. Straight up from the ledge past another 4 bolt runners to the top tree belay.

FA: Al Stephens & L. Dixon, 1988

Start: About 5m right of ’Psycho Therapy’.

Up the slab/wall past 6 bolt runners, going slightly rightwards in the middle section and back left a little near the top.

FA: L. Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988

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