East Gully All Trad climbing15 routes in cliff
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Looking down into the gorge from the top of the main cliff an obvious buttress of rock can be seen way down on the right on the side of a gully which leads down to the Gara River. These rocks offer little in the way of climbing potential but at the top of the same gully it is cliffed on both sides. These are the East Gully rocks.
Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge
Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766
Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727
It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).
Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.
This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:
Walk over the top of the main buttress to its extreme right end (facing the Gorge). Walk 50m down the ridge to the head of the gully.
In April 1984 Richard Curtis, remembered the area's inaugural climb 'Golden Age' on which he had accompanied Jill Kelman and Bob Beer. Recently returned from living in Melbourne, he had missed the main phase of development of The Three Sisters which followed his initial visit. He hoped to 'pick up some scraps'.
Many climbers walked down past these routes to go for a swim or just to check out the impressive looking (but poor quality) buttress way down near the water.
Richard, on the other hand, saw the potential of the gully and managed to convince several partners to come and experience these ferocious, exciting and high quality little cracks.
To get there walk over the top of the main buttress to the extreme left hand end (facing the cliff) then walk 50m down the ridge to the head of the gully.
The result was the development of East Gully where he found some climbs with an old-fashioned flavour.
Check out what is happening in East Gully.