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Description

LOOSE ROCK! Please wear helmets, climber and belayer. Careful what you pull on. Have your belayer 5m to the side of the route.

Despite extensive cleaning, this area has had very little traffic by Dec 2015 and a major fire in 2013. Two shale bands run horizontally and are subject to loose rock. Be wary of loose holds and wear a helmet.

Access issues inherited from Bung Crag

Located in Newnes state forest, no real issues.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Up easy ramp at left hand end of wall to first bolt

FFA: V Wills, 21 May 2012

Bouldery start then easily up ramp to right. Steep jug hauling until crux and finish to right of the diving board.

FA: V Wills, Aug 2012

Bouldery start to easier climbing. A good 20A0 if you pull on first draw

FA: Dave Gray, Sep 2012

Hard start to second bolt then pleasant grade 19 climbing to anchors via overhang and flake. Finishes at large horizontal ledge.

FA: V Wills & D Gray, Aug 2012

Goes to top of wall via large L facing flake and roof. Needs 70m rope.

FA: V Wills, Sep 2012

Up through 2 roofs, the lower one the harder

FA: V Wills, Oct 2012

Up slab and flake at right end of wall, through small roof onto thin slab. Finish on large ledge

FA: D Gray, Oct 2012

A second pitch to either TAB or S. Up through two roofs. 32 m to ground from anchors.

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, Apr 2016

Up slab at right hand end of wall with a long reach in the upper third. Mantle onto ledge to share anchors with TAB

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, Apr 2016

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