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Description

An island pagoda with faces on all sides in middle of a gully. Most climbs found on north side with couple of the south.

Access issues inherited from Bung Crag

Located in Newnes state forest, no real issues.

Approach

Down the bottom of the hill the Pagoda is seen on your left, cross fallen tree to base of wall...follow base of wall right to the first climbs.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Found on face directly off fire trail. Left line on black face. Climbs up face with some interesting moves up to shared anchor.

Set by Grant Hope-Cross

FA: Grant Hope-Cross

Right line on black face. Climbs up jugs all the way to shared anchor.

Set by Grant Hope-Cross

FA: Grant Hope-Cross

Slightly under cut start then jug haul to the top. A good warm up route for the area.

FFA: Rod wills, 14 Apr 2013

2m rt of BM. Straight up orange face left side of big cave, getting slightly steeper at the top.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 14 Apr 2013

Left of obvious scoop. Juggy fun varied climbing, Just follow the 5 bolts straight to lower offs.

FFA: Rod wills, 10 Feb 2013

Shared start with SF, tend right at 3rd bolt into funnel.

FFA: David Filan, 7 Apr 2013

Fun climbing with variety of moves, following face just right of the scoop.

FFA: Kevin van Tilburg, 24 Mar 2013

Up redish face 3m rt of obvious scoop, Good face climbing with a rest halfway.

FFA: Kevin van Tilburg, 10 Feb 2013

The track hits the wall here. Easy start to a couple of mantle style moves up ramp rt at top to shared anchors with YCTAA

FFA: Rod Wills, 24 Mar 2013

Up obvious blunt bulgey arete

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 13 Jan 2013

3m rt of YCTAA, start up thin slab, passing some ledges to the top

FFA: Rod Wills, 13 Jan 2013

3m rt of WIWITN, slab with a mantle or two

FFA: Rod Wills, 13 Jan 2013

2m of D&G, up slab to mantle over obvious feature up high, shared anchors with D&G

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 13 Jan 2013

2m rt of BME, up the next obvious blunt arete tending rt to shared anchors

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 20 May 2013

2m rt of BW, next obvious blunt arete tending left at top to shared anchors

FFA: James Ryan, 20 May 2013

20m rt of BME around the corner. Route used to get to the summit of pagoda, bolted on lead originally with coach screws, re-bolted with glue-ins later. Tend right up dirty ramp to short juggy face, onto ledge, anchors here to lower off...if continuing to top just pull on the fixed hand line on the low angled slab to top. Note hanger at anchors is just a coach screw in no glue...do not use it as single anchor points (there for fixed hand line only)...use rings instead.

FA: David filan, 20 Dec 2012

FFA: David Filan, 3 Feb 2013

The following climbs are found on the north side of the pagoda, i.e. 100m further along

100m further around the pagoda on south side, arete right side of obvious funnel.

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 29 Oct 2013

2m rt of funnel, up featured face to ledge and anchors.

FFA: Rod Wills, 24 Nov 2013

Activity

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