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Description

GPS for Rain cave parking

33 degrees, 17 mins, 30 sec South 150 degrees, 13 mins, 45 sec East.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Distance's measured from Zig Zag Railway

Head out along Newnes Forest Road past Clarence Hardwoods and follow main dirt for 9kms to T-intersection and turn right. At 11kms, past camping ground, follow Glow-worm Tunnel Rd.

Eventually just past the 27km mark (or 3km from the Gardens of Stone Park sign) you will find an obvious fire-trail on left heading uphill. If you drive past a walking track on your right with a sign to Dean's Siding you've gone about 900m too far. If you get to the tunnel you have definitely gone too far.

Head down the fire-trail for 500m and park here beside an old car width trail heading right (Rock Cairn). Head down this old road for 500m (crossing fallen trees) until you see large yellow ant mound. Take the left track just past the Ant Mound (Rock Cairn). Follow footpad until it makes it way down steep gully (Rock Cairns). Follow cliff line left until arriving at the Rain Cave.

If you continue down the main fire trail past the "Rain Cave parking" for another 300m (4WD needed) you can park and make your way to a big Pagoda on the edge of the Wolgan Valley. Head right for the Main Cliff and Judas Wall and left for the Descent Slot area.

© (bundybear)

Descent notes

Back jump from steep routes to clean.

© (bundybear)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The 1st route you come to. On the outside of the cave. Scramble up EZ ground, to a nice flake - punchy to anchors

Just outside the cave. The top is wet in rain.

Crag Classic - the obvious line just inside the cave.

Start on platform in the back of cave. 5*RB 2*RB Anchor (7 * Draws)

Cruxy to gain the roof. Then heel hooking heaven.

Smiley black corner

The bolted crack. Hard to gain access to roof crack, then fight the pump to the anchors.

The line of ring bolts in between St. Andrews Cross and Melancholic that heads up and diagonally right through many ticked and bad looking holds. Might be a project?

The furthest route on the right hand side of the cave. Starts with two unpleasant fixed hangers just on the outside of the cave.

Good little line - but a death wish to access. Starts 50m further along the ironstone dinnerplate ledge. Go around the corner from the cave, and up the unprotected atrocious ironstone dinner plates to get to it.

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Rain Cave.