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Approach

A little tricky to find the first time. As you are walking up the tourist approach track, you will pass through a gap between boulders about 1m wide, which will make you want to lean to the left as you go through it. 10m beyond the gap turn left (North) off the tourist track. (If you miss the turn you will go through another not-quite-as-narrow gap 5m later). Wind your way through the bushes for 15m, then turn right down a gully under a wedged boulder. Where you emerge from the gully, on your right is the start of Heckmondwike Twist. Straight ahead a boulder juts out with Porcupine Pie and the bolted offwidth roof. To the left is the French Connections boulder.

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Routes

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The loose chimney at the left-hand side of the roof split by an off-width.

FA: Peter Cocker & John Finnigan, 1975

The off-width crack that splits the roof and face overlooking the Knife Edge Boulder.

FA: B.Aikman, Jun 2014

A steep slab on small edges - Start on the arete left of Heckmondwicke Twist.

FA: Tony Barten & Phil Georgeff, 1987

Finishing in the far left corner (looking out) of this area, where you pop out from under the huge balanced boulder, is this small gem of a climb, requiring jamming and some constricted slab moves.

FA: John Finnigan & Peter Cocker, 1975

One of the harder face climbs around, once upon a time. Start 15 metres right of and below 'Heckmondwike Twist' at the boulder with a dyke and flake. Up the thin and technical wall with four bolts to a tree belay.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1987

The thin corner and arete right of 'French Connections' with a bolt.

FA: Richard Watts & Matthew Rogerson, 1990

Chimney past bolts on Jihad, then up slab with wires (see ACT Granite p206).

The slabby arete two boulders right of French Connections. "Fantastically thin layaways and edges" off the block past three bolts.

FA: Matthew Rogerson & Richard Watts, 1990

Activity

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