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Approach

Initial approach as for Frenchies. The first three routes are approached by walking downhill for 25m from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist to the back of the No Glove boulder, near Juveniles. The other routes are approached from the other and of the wall: walk around the top of the boulder under French Connections, past Jihad and then downhill to McCoy's Arete.

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Descent notes

'Le Muir Noir' through to 'Fast Living' all require you to belay from the top (wrap the rope around a boulder or use the chains). Rap chains allow you to rap either down to the 'Frenchies' area or to the base of Le Muir Noir.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The arête at the left hand (East) end of the black wall - behind you as you start Juvenilles and Geriatrics. Scramble down into a hollow between the route and the No Glove No Love boulder to belay (two bolts).

Bridge up the gully until you can reach around and clip the first bolt on the arete. Step onto the arete and up past five more bolts to lower-offs.

FA: Oliver Story, 25 Apr 2010

Thin moves up the wall about 10 metres right of 'Aubergine Dream'. Start at the top of 'Blagdon' P1, 'Oddball' etc where the boulder leans against the black wall. Five bolts, with the crux after the second.

FA: Tony Barten, 1989

The thin sustained wall between 'Le Muir Noir' and 'Antipodean Atrocities'. Start as for 'Le Muir Noir' but head right.

FA: Tony Barten & Andrew Bull, 1990

Thin, balancy and sustained climbing. Start as for 'McCoy's Arete'; clip the first bolt on this and climb down to join the dyke. Up this to the top with four bolts and a bolt belay.

FA: Tony Barten, 1987

Interesting climbing, a good position and an abundance of metal make this route worthwhile. Scramble to the top of the 'Changes' boulder and find a bolt belay. After a bouldery start, climb the arete to the top, clipping four bolts on the way.

FA: Mike Peck & Tony Barten, 1987

And fast drilling. Start 10 metres right of 'McCoy's Arete'. Use a dead branch to get to the first bolt. Crank up on drilled finger pockets to a big flake, then cruise up to the top past two more bolts.

FA: Tony Barten & Mike Peck, 1987

This is the flake on a boulder 10 metres uphill and to the right of 'McCoy's Arete', about level with 'Fast Living'. The overhung start has a technical and strenuous sequence. Originally there was a fixed wire, however this has been stolen. Bolt belay at the top.

FA: Tony Barten & Mike Peck, 1987

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