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Approach

Approach as for Frenchies. From French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist, continue downhill for 25m.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start 10m left of Juveniles. Traverse left then up the unprotected slab. Belay on gear as for Juveniles P1. Originally soloed by man and beast. Not a good lead for beginners.

FA: Mike Peck & John Carlson, 1984

Start from the anchors on top of the No Glove Boulder. Walk down the steepish slab towards the Juvenile Wall. Step across the gap and clip the first bolt. Pad up the slab left of Juveniles. Belay on gear.

FA: 2010

A popular 2 pitch slab. Start on the right hand side of the gully 25m downhill from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist. A large burnt fallen log is a good reference point and a good seat for your belayer.

  1. 15m (15, crux). Hard start up the flakey black slab, then more easily past 2 bolts. Gear belay.

  2. 15m (14). Step onto the block and up the golden headwall (3 bolts). DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder.

FA: Caron Avis & Anne Hastings (alt), 1987

Start 2m right of Juveniles. The arete into crack.

Start just right of a large tree about 10m right of the start of Juveniles. Climb the slab trending left. Continue up Juveniles P2 to the top of the Knife Edge Boulder, or trad belay as for Juveniles P1. The first bolt is quite high and there are suspect flakes down low.

FA: Mike Peck & Craig Kentwell, 1987

Activity

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