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Description

The first area "found" by climbers, with some excellent cracks. Stays in the shade through winter, when it takes a few days to dry out after rain.

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Access issues inherited from Billy Billy

Billy Billy straddles the boundary of Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve and Namadgi National Park. Rock climbing is permitted both in Namadgi and under the Tidbinbilla plan of management, except at significant Aboriginal sites.

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Approach

Initially as for Sarah's Cracks.From the Innocence sector follow a track that goes alternately downhill and left (west), skirting under the major ridge-top boulders. Half way between the sectors the track passes a large slab that's just low-angled enough to walk down. At the 150m mark the track splits; the lower track goes to Sarah's Cracks. Take the upper wide gully to the western end of the outcrop. Keep skirting round the boulders to reach Sector of a Lonely Heart.

-35.506672, 148.895204 (WGS84)

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Descent notes

Rap anchor above the arête.

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Ethic inherited from Billy Billy

This crag has been developed with an old-school trad and mixed ethic, bolts are not used when natural gear is available. Try to muster some common sense when deciding whether or not to bolt routes, nobody will walk up that hill to repeat no-star generic slabs.

Most of the cracks at Billy Billy have required extensive brushing to bring them up to a standard of cleanliness which is palatable to the average climber. Routes which are claimed but inadequately cleaned are likely to have the f.a. details "lost", and naming rights handed over to the person who puts in the hard work. Also, if you stumble upon an unrecorded route which is spotlessly clean (and especially if you see a pile of lichen at the base), there's a fair chance that it's somebody else's unfinished business. Whilst there isn't such a thing as a closed crack project, be aware that "brushing debt" is taken rather seriously and must be repaid in full (I'm looking at you, Nick Brown!)

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route

Place a good wire with a stick, then launch up the overhanging podded crack. When the lower crack ends, move left into the more regular handcrack. Wires and cams for the first half, a few #2 and/or #3 camalots for the upper crack.

FA: Damian Jovanovic & Justin Ryan, 12 Jun 2014

The amazing line of disconnected cracks splitting the blunt arête.

FA: Jaime Valdivia, 29 Nov 2014

Fingers. Double finger-sized cams and a few wires.

FA: Oliver Story, Marcin Pius & Daniel Gordon, 17 May 2014

The fist crack splitting a boulder up high. Reach the start via a somewhat complicated scramble up the gully and choked boulders. Bring two or three #4 camalots, a #3, and a couple of finger/thin hand pieces for the belay.

FA: Carl Godfrey, Jamie Valdivia & Oliver Story, Feb 2014

Activity

Check out what is happening in Sector of a Lonely Heart.