Sector of a Lonely Heart All Trad climbing4 routes in sector
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The first area "found" by climbers, with some excellent cracks. Stays in the shade through winter, when it takes a few days to dry out after rain.©
Access issues inherited from Billy Billy
Initially as for Sarah's Cracks.From the Innocence sector follow a track that goes alternately downhill and left (west), skirting under the major ridge-top boulders. Half way between the sectors the track passes a large slab that's just low-angled enough to walk down. At the 150m mark the track splits; the lower track goes to Sarah's Cracks. Take the upper wide gully to the western end of the outcrop. Keep skirting round the boulders to reach Sector of a Lonely Heart.
-35.506672, 148.895204 (WGS84)©
Rap anchor above the arête.©
Ethic inherited from Billy Billy
This crag has been developed with an old-school trad and mixed ethic, bolts are not used when natural gear is available. Try to muster some common sense when deciding whether or not to bolt routes, nobody will walk up that hill to repeat no-star generic slabs.
Most of the cracks at Billy Billy have required extensive brushing to bring them up to a standard of cleanliness which is palatable to the average climber. Routes which are claimed but inadequately cleaned are likely to have the f.a. details "lost", and naming rights handed over to the person who puts in the hard work. Also, if you stumble upon an unrecorded route which is spotlessly clean (and especially if you see a pile of lichen at the base), there's a fair chance that it's somebody else's unfinished business. Whilst there isn't such a thing as a closed crack project, be aware that "brushing debt" is taken rather seriously and must be repaid in full (I'm looking at you, Nick Brown!)©
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