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Scimitar 21

  • Grade context: AU
  • Height: 70m
  • Ascents: 24

Description

Start: Base of big obvious leftward leaning crack.

A soaring and beautiful looking curved crack. Described as one of the best routes in the State. The start is unmistakable - the immodest, arching crackline.

  1. 35m (21) The line spears leftwards up to a semi-detached flake.

  2. 35m (18) Glide leftwards again on excellent stone. Before the crack expires, head straight up slab to the top.

© (gremlin)

Route history

1974First Ascent: Ian Thomas & Trevor Gynther

The initial slab and 10m of the crack was climbed free. The next 30 - 40m was aided on small stoppers except for a few moves somewhere in the middle where an obvious set of footholds present themselves. When the lead climber finally realised that he was lying down flat on the slab with his feet in aiders and that he could actually stand up without hands, he made his way, with some embarrassment, to the top! Originally graded 18 M2 or M3.

1979First Free Ascent: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen

Warnings

Location

Lat/Long: -28.82011, 151.94601

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

*** 21 Assigned grade
*** ACA Route Register
21 The Original Queensland Climbing Reference

Ethic

Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Take care of walkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Do not place new bolts on the Pyramids, Castle Rock, Sphinx Rock, Turtle Rock and Mt Norman. All these areas are viewed by the general public many times a day. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

inherited from Second Pyramid

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 90% from 14 ratings

Tick Types

Onsight 6
Flash 1
Tick 6
Second 2
Attempt 2
Target 1

Comment keywords

hard crux traverse flake feet crack good ripper amazing great beautiful awesome intimidating scary fall

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Activity

Check out what is happening on Scimitar (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.