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Wayne's World

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Seasonality

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Description

As Wayne's World is on the southern face there is no sun all day from mid March till early November. During these shaded times it is best to give it about 2 days to dry after rain. Most routes are fully bolted but take a light rack for the mixed routes (I have marked these and listed what gear to use). Take about 10 draws and bolt plates and I recommend some 10mm plates as some of the bolts are a bit fat. As with all Glasshouse destinations bring the Aerogard. Development is continuing so keep off the projects please.

I would like to thank Height Dynamics for donating the anchor stations, the thoughtful few that donated bolts, and the handful of dedicated climbers that helped me develop this area. Play safe! Wayne.

© (gremlin)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Approach

Google Map of Mt Beerwah

Make your way to the 'Glasshouse Mountains Lookout' (last toilets). Pass this and keep going and onto the gravel road for another 200 meters then turn right into Connection Rd. Follow this (very rough logging road), for about 3.5 kilometers (passing the old carpark, if you knew where that was) and then taking the right fork and driving along under the power lines for a few hundred meters. Just before the big power line tower on the hill, there are a few roads off to the right. Take the last one (it's flattest) and park without obstructing the gate.

Car park: https://goo.gl/maps/6kgzoQYHNDtCxLwg7

Coords: -26.900995, 152.873766

Walk through the gate and down the fire break (rough road) for about 8mins until you see a narrow motorbike trail on the right that bypasses a big puddle in the main road. Head into the bush perpendicular and gently uphill until you hit a tall gum. Head rightwards towards the next big gum. Right again along the top edge of the gulley (on your right) for a few meters then left into the bush along a vague trail through some close saplings. Right at the cairn and follow the goats trail along the flat until a second cairn where you head right and down. Head downhill until you intersect a creek bed on your left; cross it and pass the cairn on a boulder to the left. Up beside the dead and burnt tree then right across the ferny slope. After a bit more bush, head up abruptly to the cliff and turn right. Follow the cliff along to the crag.

Routes are listed from right to left...

© (gremlin)

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The following two routes are 75m left of the main wall of Wayne's World, directly above where the approach trail hits the base of the mountain the second time. Scramble up the right trending ramp to get to the base of the slabby face.

Follow line of right trending bolts to chains. The first bolt is an Allen head, and watch the loose blocks above the 4th bolt. Rap off down "The Nut".

FA: unknown (climbed, graded by Wayne & Debra), 2000

Straight up the line of bolts, then at the 4th bolt to avoid the choss above trend left to pick up the last 2 bolts of "Burnt Cookies". Named after Debra.

FA: Debra & Wayne Mieth, 2007

The crack corner system on the left end of wall.

FA: Unknown

Start at featured flake left of 'Extreme Close Up'. Up flake to bolt, then up and left to gear. Continue straight up to chains. A fun climb with an easy middle section. 4 bolts + trad (Small hexes)

FA: Wayne Mieth & Debra Mieth, 2007

Start at small featured groove placing gear then follow right trending line of bolts to chains with another small groove for gear between the first and second bolt. Shares the last 2 bolts with 'No Honk'. 5 bolts + trad. 'Small' hexes and medium to large wires. (For an easy multi pitch continue up pitch 2 of No Honk)

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

1 17
2 13
  1. 32m (17) Follow line of 8 bolts to chains on spacious ledge. A one move wonder, the rest of the climb is fairly easy.

  2. 25m (13) 4 bolts + trad. Was bolted on lead. Supplement line of bolts with small to medium hexes.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

The bolted corner to the right of where the approach track meets the face. Easy scramble past 2 bolts, then things get a bit more serious. Work your way up the corner to DBB above. Optional cam placement between the 4th and 5th bolt (yellow alien).

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

Easy block hop up to high first bolt then follow bolts to DBB. Fun thought provoking moves. Last bolt needs a big bolt plate. Optional med/large hex between 4th & 5th bolt.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

1 16
2 13
3
  1. 30m (16) Was bolted on lead. Pass 4 bolts, then gear to chains. 4 bolts + trad. (Medium hex and big cam).

  2. 22m (13) Was bolted on lead. Be wary of loose flake below last bolt. 4 bolts to chains.

  3. -m (-) project.

FA: Wayne, Debra Mieth & Darrin Carter (pitch 1), 2005

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth (pitch 2), 2006

Straight up to chains. A tad bold.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Ross Ernst., 2006

Great moves for the grade. Climb to high first bolt and up face to faint corner and DBB above.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Ross Ernst, 2006

Follow line to DBB under roof. Fun move off last bolt.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth., 2006

Start 4m to the right of White Castle. Stay left of the ledge and arete up top to finish at anchors below the rooflet.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Ross Ernst., 2006

Climb line to chains, keeping bolts on your right. (If the bolts are on your left it is only a 16).

FA: Wayne Mieth & Wilfred Bos., 2006

Blast up the mossy crack then straight up the thin face as the crack trends left. finished at DBB below the second pitch of We're not Worthy. Great at the grade.

Start: Crack line left of We're Not Worthy.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

You will need to trail a rope to get off this one.

  1. 23m (16) Hard start to F/H, then follow left trending line to chains (optional small Alien Cam in crack). (March 2014 update: bring gardening tools if you have any intention of placing an Alien)

  2. 35m (16) Cruxy off the belay then at the 3rd bolt climb leftwards and up to pick up the line of left trending bolts to chains. Keep to the left of the small grassy bush near the top. Easy climbing in top section. Alternatively for those of you who don't want to trail a rope. Start as original then at the 3rd bolt head straight up to chains. (Jan 2015: Chains at the top of the second pitch are rusted and unsafe.)

FA: Wayne, Debra Mieth. (Wayne Mieth, Darrin Carter & pitch 1), 2005

Straight up then keep overhang on your right, continue onto chains.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Alex Cruz., 2005

Up water runnel (gear on left, small hexes and cams) then hard move on right side of overhang, continue onto chains of 'Yes Way'. bolts + trad.

FFA: Wayne Mieth & Wilfred Bos., 2005

3 bolts to DBB below roof.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Max Cruz., 2006

  1. 25m (14) Also bolted on lead. Same first bolt as 'Megga Happy Ending' then head left to hidden bolt, sling horn and place gear (small cams and wires) under overhang, pass this obstacle to good (medium) cam and on to chains. 2 bolts + trad.

  2. -m (-) project...

FA: Wayne Mieth & Darrin Carter., 2005

First route done here and was bolted on lead. Up line of pockets to overhang with small cam and wire then on to chains.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Darrin Carter, 2005

  1. 26m (12) Initialled, Start at the "GW" marker to high first carrot. Continue from here to top passing 4 more carrots.

  2. -m (-) project...

15/8/18 Chains are moderately rusty.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

Hard start then easy climbing to fun top section. Start a couple of meters right of the "GW" mark. Up to carrot, then climb continues up and left joining Gas Works. 5 Bolts.

15/8/18 Chains are moderately rusty.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

The corner on the right hand side of Wayne's World.

FA: Unknown

Start: Just left of previous climb.

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