This route is a great adventure climb starting in Waynes World and passing through the South Face via a large cave, to the West shoulder. The cave is probably the "Garden of Eden" described in the 1960’s route Pilgrims Progress. From there you follow the old route to the shoulder via Shell Rock. It’s a big day out so start early, take lots of water, head torches and charged phones. The route has a few vertical sections and a number of steep slabs with varied protection. Pitch 7 is particularly run out with poor protection- be aware.
This route was the result of many sessions by R. Denny, W. Kite and D. Luton through the middle of 2016. The first full ascent to the shoulder was made in November 2016- 12 hours car to car.
APPROACH: At the west end of Waynes World (S-26.89879,E+153.88150), walk further west up the slope as far as you can to reach a belay ledge at the obvious corner.
GEAR: A full set of cams, nuts, hex's and tricams plus plenty of slings. Take 2x60m ropes to allow a retreat.
1- 20m (10)
Climb up the steps in the corner to a ledge then left to go around the arête. Scramble upwards along the bottom of the rock face to a tree belay.
2- 25m (13)
Scramble about 10m up to next corner and belay on the large ledge. Use the vertical crack for protection and climb onto the arête to find further cracks. Second half is a bit run out to the trees on the next large ledge- keep left to avoid the large loose block.
3- 31m (12)
Straight up the steep face to the left of the corner. Towards the top, step right into the corner to avoid some scrub and find the base of a bare slab. Aim for the trees at the top of the slab without much protection. A shrub well to the left can be used about halfway- long sling to minimise drag. Tree belay on small ledge.
4- 35m (10)
Scramble up about 10m up and over the corner to a tree belay at the base of the next slab. Easy climbing with a few pockets for protection. Straight up then to the right of the scrub to find a tree belay in depression at the base of another slab.
5- 18m (10)
Up the slab to find protection under the roof on the right hand side. Use a long sling then traverse up to the left along the base of the roof. Step onto the ledge at the base of a chimney. Belay off gear in the back of the cave.
6- 20m (13)
Climb the chimney and step left to place a large hex in the narrow top section. Easy climbing up the slab trending right, but minimal protection till a corner is reached. Aim for the clump of trees on the right which has a wide ledge behind. Belay off gear and/or tree.
7- 30m (16, crux)
Straight up to underside of the cave (probably the "Garden of Eden" described in Pilgrims Progress- 1960’s). Not a hard grade but it’s extremely run out with a lot of slippery lichen on a bare slab with very poor protection- use caution. Belay at the first reasonable shrub available. The cave is now a 15m scramble away. Halfway there, a ledge on the left has a large leaning block that provides a good rapping anchor- 40m to bottom of pitch. The next four pitches go the shoulder via Shell Rock following the top part of Pilgrims Progress.
8- 20m (16)
From the ledge to the left of the cave, traverse left very exposed over a bare slab. It’s only this one move that’s hard- beware the hollow-sounding flake above you. Once some decent holds are found, it ease’s to more like 13 going up the small groove which leads to a timbered ledge. Tree belay or use the fixed hanger.
9- 20m (-)
Scramble up the steep gully then up the right side of a chimney. Keep going till the rock face becomes steep and the vertical crack is visible.
10- 20m (-)
This is also pitch 9 of Legend of the Barbed Wire Banshee. Straight up the steep face on the right of the tree filled gulley to reach the 2nd set of chains just below Shell Rock cave. Take some time to enjoy views out of the cave.
11- 20m (-)
Follow the last pitch of West Beerwah. Trend right towards the top then up to find the chains. A bush-bash up and over easier ground leads to the shoulder. Follow the ridge around to find the walking track.