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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

The south face can be accessed from Wayne's World access track or by following the rock apron left of Fern Wall.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

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Grade Route

Variant finish of The Legend of the Barbed Wire Banshee linking to Shell Rock and finishing up West Beerwah final pitch to chains, for cleaner climbing. After completing pitch 8 of Banshee, climb the steep tree filled gully to the back door of Shell Rock with two sets of old chains. Continue up as per last pitch of West Beerwah to rap chains then scramble up through thick scrub to the top of the shoulder.

FA: Jack Denny & Russell Denny, Jul 2016

This route climbs the south-west corner to the top of the shoulder, directly up through a cave and long chimney. The climb is long, the rock surprisingly good and the features vary from pitch to pitch to keep things very interesting. It has few isolated 16 moves and one hard cave exit move with some runouts. The first scramble to the terrace and the beginning of the proper climb is very bushy and slow if carrying heavy packs. It is a true adventure climb for Glasshouse Mountains standards. P1 - 7: C. Brazzelli, B. Cobb in April 2015. P8 - 11:D. Luton, R. Denny in April 2016/

APPROACH: The route starts few metres left of Burnt Cookies, and The Nut, marked 'TN', at Wayne's World on the left side of south face. Accessed either by bush-bashing from the 4x4 track from the tourist track carpark (40 min), or via Wayne's world access track on the south side (35 min).

GEAR: slings, a set of hexes, few small to medium Cams, tricams.

  1. Locate the start 3m left of BC and start the bushy scramble ascending left and occasional zig zag to LLR until reaching clear rock at the end of the terrace and the beginning of the proper climb (S26 53.978 E152 52.846). This pitch is similar to the lower Caves Route of Tibro.

  2. From a split corner/flake climb up to ledge staying left of a big white overhanging roof cap. TB

  3. Up easy but runout slab sections to cave. Top belay in upper-right end of cave on good gear (S26 53.937 E152 52.827).

  4. Climb out of the right side of the cave with an overhanging move on good holds and TB on top of the cave (short pitch to avoid rope drag).

  5. Climb directly up slabby sections to find the base of a long chimney, hidden behind a corner ledge on the RHS. Solid tree belay.

  6. 50m (16) A long chimney that gets gradually narrow, runout and cruxy at the top. Ends into a small cave/groove. Belay on gear (this pitch can be split in 2 to avoid rope drag but on poor belay stance). You can rap back from here or:

  7. 27m (16) An overhanging protectable crack above the cave will set you on a low angle dirt filled crack leading to chimney above. Avoid the chimney and head out right above cave across bulging face, good pro in small horziontal slot, trending right and up, increasingly runout to series of ledges, go to 2nd ledge up and a good belay tree at 27m.

  8. 10m + 15m traverse (-) Up from belay about 10m to ledge at base of bare rock face, go right a few meters, cam in horizontal crack, bring second up here, then traversing right, drop down into a chimney and keep going right and up across chimney about 15m to belay tree and tree lined shelf, might be ugly to retreat from here. Beyond the right end of the shelf, there's a shear face dropping towards the South East, no route that way.

  9. 30m (-) Pack rope and scramble up a steep bushy gully ending in a cul-de-sac of rockfaces.

  10. 15m (-) Rope up in awkward location, starting up arete on left then straight up over belay and up eventually to find ledge and small gum tree for belay.

  11. 50m+ (-) Pack rope and bulldoze up narrowing gully with thick scrub and rock faces either side, gully tops out on ridge, cliff edge on the right drops down to a bushy terrace/ramp about 50m below. Keep going straight to the summit of the Western shoulder.

DESCENT: From belay at the top of P7 a 60m rope is sufficient to rap the route. All trees used for rapping and belaying have slings and a "bomber" hex is conveniently placed in the middle of the chimney to break the abseil and get to the base. Twin 50m ropes would be recommendable. As the description suggests, a retreat from P8 could be problematic due traversing nature of upper pitches.

FA: C. Brazzelli, B. Cobb, R. Denny & D. Luton, 26 Apr 2015

Start from a point a little to the right of a series of overhangs, slightly behind a prominent dead tree at the left hand end of the south wall. This climb is a direst route to the lower shoulder. From the start, an ascending traverse left is made to a large veranda. Climb the corner to the left of the ledge. An awkward overhang is surmounted and the nose of the buttress circumvented. A steep wall then leads to a broad sloping ledge, above this climb the wall to a timbered shelf. From this point, ascend a series of easy slabs in the direction of the now visible 'Garden of Eden' cave. Continue on a series of steep holdless slabs leading to the cave. Traverse from the cave on steep slabs to the left into a small groove which leads to a timbered ledge. Ascend a steep gully to Shell Rock (a prominent outcrop with a hold through the centre). A scramble over easier ground leads to the shoulder.

FA: W. Peascod, N. Lamb & D Groom, 1960

This route is a great adventure climb starting in Waynes World and passing through the South Face via a large cave, to the West shoulder. The cave is probably the "Garden of Eden" described in the 1960’s route Pilgrims Progress. From there you follow the old route to the shoulder via Shell Rock. It’s a big day out so start early, take lots of water, head torches and charged phones. The route has a few vertical sections and a number of steep slabs with varied protection. Pitch 7 is particularly run out with poor protection- be aware.

This route was the result of many sessions by R. Denny, W. Kite and D. Luton through the middle of 2016. The first full ascent to the shoulder was made in November 2016- 12 hours car to car.

APPROACH: At the west end of Waynes World (S-26.89879,E+153.88150), walk further west up the slope as far as you can to reach a belay ledge at the obvious corner.

GEAR: A full set of cams, nuts, hex's and tricams plus plenty of slings. Take 2x60m ropes to allow a retreat.

1- 20m (10) Climb up the steps in the corner to a ledge then left to go around the arête. Scramble upwards along the bottom of the rock face to a tree belay.

2- 25m (13) Scramble about 10m up to next corner and belay on the large ledge. Use the vertical crack for protection and climb onto the arête to find further cracks. Second half is a bit run out to the trees on the next large ledge- keep left to avoid the large loose block.

3- 31m (12) Straight up the steep face to the left of the corner. Towards the top, step right into the corner to avoid some scrub and find the base of a bare slab. Aim for the trees at the top of the slab without much protection. A shrub well to the left can be used about halfway- long sling to minimise drag. Tree belay on small ledge.

4- 35m (10) Scramble up about 10m up and over the corner to a tree belay at the base of the next slab. Easy climbing with a few pockets for protection. Straight up then to the right of the scrub to find a tree belay in depression at the base of another slab.

5- 18m (10) Up the slab to find protection under the roof on the right hand side. Use a long sling then traverse up to the left along the base of the roof. Step onto the ledge at the base of a chimney. Belay off gear in the back of the cave.

6- 20m (13) Climb the chimney and step left to place a large hex in the narrow top section. Easy climbing up the slab trending right, but minimal protection till a corner is reached. Aim for the clump of trees on the right which has a wide ledge behind. Belay off gear and/or tree.

7- 30m (16, crux) Straight up to underside of the cave (probably the "Garden of Eden" described in Pilgrims Progress- 1960’s). Not a hard grade but it’s extremely run out with a lot of slippery lichen on a bare slab with very poor protection- use caution. Belay at the first reasonable shrub available. The cave is now a 15m scramble away. Halfway there, a ledge on the left has a large leaning block that provides a good rapping anchor- 40m to bottom of pitch. The next four pitches go the shoulder via Shell Rock following the top part of Pilgrims Progress.

8- 20m (16) From the ledge to the left of the cave, traverse left very exposed over a bare slab. It’s only this one move that’s hard- beware the hollow-sounding flake above you. Once some decent holds are found, it ease’s to more like 13 going up the small groove which leads to a timbered ledge. Tree belay or use the fixed hanger.

9- 20m (-) Scramble up the steep gully then up the right side of a chimney. Keep going till the rock face becomes steep and the vertical crack is visible.

10- 20m (-) This is also pitch 9 of Legend of the Barbed Wire Banshee. Straight up the steep face on the right of the tree filled gulley to reach the 2nd set of chains just below Shell Rock cave. Take some time to enjoy views out of the cave.

11- 20m (-) Follow the last pitch of West Beerwah. Trend right towards the top then up to find the chains. A bush-bash up and over easier ground leads to the shoulder. Follow the ridge around to find the walking track.

FA: R. Denny, W. Kite & Dean Luton, Nov 2016

Lhotse Flake (grade 15 trad) - 9 pitches to summit South West Shoulder of Beerwah starting at the bottom of No Honk at Waynes World. Good protection, trad route, solid rock, getting steeper, enjoy the exposure as it gets higher above the 4th pitch, needs an early start, not the place to get stranded in the dark. First Ascent 25/04/17 Russell Denny, Kerrie McMartin

  1. 35m (14/15 ) Start at the initials NH, bottom of No Honk, some trad placements to join Extreme Close Up, half a dozen bolts (plates needed), rusty rap chains at 35m

  2. 40m (14/15) 2nd pitch of No Honk, mixed trad with 3 or 4 bolts (plates needed) past its rap chains at 35m to terrace beyond with small gum tree for anchor and belay

  3. 30m (10) Up left through small roof, easy going low angle straight up, sling a couple of bushes on the way, use bush for belay anchor

  4. 35m (10) Easy going at first through light scrub, then getting steeper on better rock up higher , sling line of bushes, belay on a ledge at the bottom of the next steeper pitch

  5. 30m (12) Straight up left facing corner on cleaner rock to belay alcove at the base of the obvious 30m high flake (right facing corner)

  6. 30m (14) Up into the right facing corner of the big flake, hand jam and sink cams in the crackline all the way, smaller cams towards top, head for bush in alcove at the 30m mark, make anchor with bush and tricam placement

  7. 40m (15) Getting steeper now, follow obvious crackline straight up slightly right trending, cam placements all the way, all sizes, belay anchor below headwall, sling a bush supplimented with small gear placements

  8. 20m (15) Left up the headwall with good overhang / mantle move, easy solid rock to the lip of the terrace, gum tree belay anchor, great place to lookout here right on the top lip of the main wall Pack up the rope, scramble diagonally up left 50m heading for Shell Rock becoming visible, up chimney / gully to back door Shell Rock

  9. 25m (14) Rope up on the final pitch above Shell Rock, cams, nuts, to chains on the hollow lava tube at 25m.

Pack up gear, follow the goat track about 50m to the western shoulder along the ridge towards the knob, then over slabs to hook up with the tourist track.

FA: Kerrie McMartin & Russell Denny, 25 Apr 2017

This climb starts to the right of Wayne's World sector and meanders its way up the south wall topping out at the left shoulder of the summit. The FA's did not plan on going all the way but a lack of any real plan and sketchy lower offs meant this appeared as the only real option!

Start early, avoid rainy weather, carry head torches for all climbers, take phones and be willing to run it out.

There are probably far better equipped routes so this is not recommended unless you are up for an adventure

  1. Head to Wayne's World and start approximately 30m right of "Gas Works" in what looks like a fairly good corner. Make a belay in the small tree at the top of the sloping slab. (12)

  2. Head up trending right over a low jagged rocky ridge with minimal gear for another 45m to another small tree.

  3. Fairly good climbing up slabs to a dirty corner for belay. (55m 8)

  4. Climb through the rocks and shrubs until you get to the base of another wall (45m 4). Now walk right along the apron with a false sense of hope that you are somewhere near the summit for about 40m until you realise that things are getting steep and you should tie in again.

  5. About the point where you can't walk any further east, head up an almost vertical, exposed outcrop for about 14 metres (13) until you reach a very healthy looking young adult gum tree. It makes an excellent anchor for belaying the second climber, with a good view to the east across a vegetation-filled gully to a towering crag of volcanic columns.

  6. The best pitch. Climb upwards and to the left through large jagged rocks, into a deep, right facing crack for protection and use the large unusual features of the uncharacteristically cream coloured right face to reach yet another tree/shrub belay at the top of the short wall. (35 m - 16)

Pitches 7 - 10 are a good practice in slinging marginal gear comprising of hedges and shrubs. Memory of this is hazy due to one head torch used between 2 climbers, who were on occasions up to 50 metres apart! Having several footholds break off in total darkness, part-way up a grade 13 pitch, was the most vivid memory of this section of the climb! Especially as there wasn't a lot in the way of good placements.

FA: Patrick & Adrian Woodcraft, 17 Mar 2015

The start of this climb is about 400m to the right of Pilgrim's Progress and is supposedly marked by a large grey gum tree with a heavy top and a badly burnt base. Who knows if it's still there? Two short pitches traverse to the left and a steep 20m wall is climbed directly to a veranda of shrubbery. The climbing continues until a series of small overhangs are reached. Traverse right and then continue up the weathered walls until a short traverse left leads to the south-west shoulder.

FA: W. Peascod, N. Lamb & L. Upfold 1960s

FA: Cris, Russell Denny & Dani, 6 Jan

The start is located on the left of the ridge on the south face. The first four pitches are up a wall on good rock, then 200m of mank and bush to the middle cliffs. The net four pitches are up from a small pinnacle against the ace - up and over a small overhand and into a crack. Up the crack until it rises to a huge overhang. Traverse right onto the right wall and across to another crack and up. The last four pitches are clean climbing on the steep ribs that lead to the top.

FA: Les Wood & Donn Groom, 1966

Start two ridges west of the Central Rib, at the base of the large, clean wall on the south face. Up left to a sloping ledge. Traverse leftward under an overhang to a grassy ledge. Up a rather water-worn groove to the right of a corner. up rightward over slabs to a projecting rock, right of an overhang. Up the slabs below the overhand and then up the groove and into a cave. Out of the cave to a crack on the left of an overhang.

FA: Les Wood, Donn Groom & Brian Driscoll, 1966

Start about 500m right of Mopoke Slabs. The climb commences just to the left of 'Barrier Wall'. Follows up a series of slabs until the veranda is reached. Traverse to the right for about 30m until a large prominent rib bounding the south and east faces is reached. A difficult chimney is surmounted which leads to the crest of the rib. 115m of climbing on the face of this immense rib leads to a belt of scrub below the summit pyramid. The final wall is well provided in knobbly excrescences and a direct route is followed over this wall to the summit.

FA: J. Stephenson, G. Broadbent & N. Lamb, 1953

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