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The Martian 17

  • Grade context: AU
  • Height: 320m
  • Bolts: 22
  • Pitches: 10
  • Ascents: 39
1 15 48m
2 13 28m
3 14 30m
4 13 31m
5 11 30m
6 13 30m
7 13 30m
8 15 30m
9 15 30m
10 17 30m

Description

The Martian Multipitch. 320m grade 17 50m or so east from right end of Wayne's World, a few metres past a very large burned tree stump at a low point adjacent to the rock apron, as the track gradient starts to rise but before the big left facing corner. This is a clean and safe route to the top of the western shoulder ideal for beginners but long enough to engage the experience climber for a relaxing day out, with terrific top out pitches, all with bolted belays. Rock is great all the way. A set of cams up to #4, nuts and hexes. 10 draws. Slings and extenders,

  1. 48m (15) 5 m east from the burned tree base before the corner end of the wall. Up on easy ramp for 20m then trending left around a steep section. A steeper move around a block and up to a shady ledge.

  2. 28m (13) Walk left and up to another nearby ledge. Climb the rampy shallow corner trending slightly left to a tree beside a detached big block. Belay behind tree.

  3. 30m (14) Step right and up from belay and climb up to lip on featured slab. Trend slight left with some bold sections to belay on ledge behind gum trees.

  4. 31m (13) Thin moves up slab, sling small trees on the left and gear, above small terrace, great featured rock straight up.

  5. 30m (11) Climb straight up on grippy and featured low angle slab, follow small crack line with pro to belay. Good rock, typical Beerwah volcanic features. The next 2 pitches weave through the timbered middle slabs, take care to stay on route.

  6. 30m (13) From belay, up and trending right on low angle slabs (grade 4), sling trees and find the way above to ledge/alcove behind shrubs. Up the chimney to belay above.

  7. 30m (13) Up right facing corner from belay. Pitch is trending slightly left and stays on clean rock. Scramble to belay above.

  8. 30m (15) Up to bushy terrace and walk 10m left to base of chimney. Climb chimney with pro options (or arete on the left) to left of rooflet. Up past shrubbery contouring left, jam fingers behind a polished detached cruxy block. Straight up good pro, final approach to belay from below left, has hidden pro. Beware of some minor rope drag on this pitch, use long extenders. NOTE: if rapping this pitch, it is necessary to stay right (east) of the climbing line on the rib and keep the rope well away from the corner to avoid getting it stuck in the flakes and cracks.

  9. 30m (15) A slab pitch getting steeper, up left at first to meet the faint right trending crack system with small placements. Moss and lichen covering on this pitch, small holds, engaging, last section up past a small tree to a hanging belay. Terrific slab pitch.

  10. Olympus Mons (crux) 30m (17) Climb the vertical crack system trending right, a few cruxy and thought provoking sections, good rock, to top out belay. Mind the stacked blocks at the top. Final 6m use right ramp to escape the overhanging chimney or climb directly.

1x60m rope sufficient to climb the route.

From top belay, scramble up the wide gully between the west shoulder and the knob. The arch is visible on the RHS. Once on the saddle ridge, descend and traverse contours towards the north-east to meet the tourist track. Try to stay on existing foot pad to avoid erosion.

Route history

28 Apr 2019First Ascent: Russell Denny & Cris

Warnings

Location

Lat/Long: -26.89837, 152.88452

Grade citation

15,13,14,13,11,13,13,15,15,17 Assigned grade
17 private

Ethic

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 66% from 29 ratings

Tick Types

Onsight 20
Flash 1
Red point 3
Tick 6
Lead 2
Second 2

Comment keywords

solid hard difficult crux challenging traverse crack slabby vertical face polished interesting shady flake sharp awkward epic easy confusing slippery chimney bad short dry rest good enjoyable nice cool pleasant fun perfect amazing great classic superb awesome brilliant fall

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Activity

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