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The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.

© (djbiggs)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Start: About 20m below the extreme top of the gully above Carborundum Chimney. The climb goes up the steep black wall L of the Tibro's East summit overhang with good technical moves and plenty of exposure with great stances in the small caves.

  1. 33m (crux) A hard start up the steep wall, then R into a small gully. Bear R again over easy ground to the foot of a wall and piton. Up and to the R over thin holds, very delicately, towards the top R corner of the wall. Easier towards an overhang. Over the overhang and into a small cave with a piton.

  2. 20m Out of the cave on the R, then step around the corner with mega exposure. Straight up, then tend R towards another small cave (the one on the L) with 3 pitons. Good holds but exposed.

  3. 17m Interesting and thought-provoking moves up the cave with good gear, moving up and escaping out L. After the cave comes easier ground and a ledge. Take a deep breath and traverse R into the unknown around the arete and continue up to yet another small cave.

  4. 17m Climbs through the difficult groove in the roof of the cave. Awesome wide bridging here with easier climbing above into cave stance once more. Messy unknown bolted belay located to the left of the cave. Good gear around it.

  5. 33m Out of the cave on the L, up a rib which is a bit loose, L below a loose block to easier climbing, traversing L. Keep traversing L. The stance is found below a black wall, or tree belay further along. Traverse off L along an easy ledge and up through bush and mank to summit.

FA: Les Wood & Donn Groom, 1966

From the top of pitch 5 on Overexposed climb black wall and slab above with no protection to top.

FA: John Oddie & Rick White, 1970

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2005

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2005

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin, 2005

A few bits of trad required to get to roof, then all bolts.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Adam Donoghue, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes & John O'Brien, 11 Nov 2012

FA: A. Donoghue G. Llewellin, 2007

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Paul Hoskins, 1980

FA: Rick White, Marty Beare & Dave Moss, 1980

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Paul Hoskins

Bouldery start leading to wildly exposed jug jumping. Have fun.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Short and powerful or could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of small cave with amazing featured rock. 4 closely spaced FHs and very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug. The anchor bolt is not installed (there is a 12mm hole ready for e bolt!). Lower off 4th bolt in the meantime,

Set by Neil Monteith

FFA: Neil Monteith & Logan Barber, Aug 2013

Reachy crux on marble like rock.

FA: R. Ferguson G.Llewellin, 2006

Beautiful orange rock, tricky crux.

FA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson, 2005

Start under the main section of overhangs, and wander up the slab to a big 'T' marker in a cosy groove. A stunning old time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at the route and think 'How can this be a 13?'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! A grand testament to the pioneers of old.

  1. 14m (crux) - Step out left from belay and climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Run-out in top section. Wires and cams for belay.

  2. 14m - Another bold pitch. Walk left across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 Friend in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the cave.

  3. 15m - Step out of cave and climb finger crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far right of ledge. With two 50m ropes, this provides an epic escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland.

  4. 15m - Climb the crack/corner to ledge.

  5. 15m - Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the left. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain.

FFA: Les Wood & John Tillack, 1966

A short, exposed, burly route on quality rock. Should give you grief.

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin

Perfect rock and movement sees you into a hard transition, leaving you gasping at Achilles crux.

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

Starts as for The Bends and goes straight instead of traversing into Achilles. Looks staunch.

The bends first bolt then heading right, immaculate rock meets exposed position.

FA: A.Donoghue

Big and bold, 30 in the summit cave. Devotion required.

FA: Lee Cujes, 29 Mar 2009

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge.

Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

FA: Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin, 2006

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

Great rock, never to hard just hold on.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

Unique climb, short and powerful moves sees you enter into one for tibros most private areas. Watch your back.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

FA: Neil Monteith, 1998

FA: Gareth & Ross

FA: Gareth Llewellin Ross Ferguson (alt), 2006

Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up orange rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the wall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

FA: Neil Monteith

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FFA: Logan Barber & Neil Monteith, Aug 2013


First route inside Cave 5. Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

FA: craig pohlman, 2005

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

The pockety, left to right trending line 3m R of SYI. Might be 24 but the grades in Cave 5 are all whacked out.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 20 Jan 2013

Puniverse into the Creationism project and slightly more doable than Creationism. Now open, have at it!

Start 7m left of Groundhog Day. Coolum-esque climbing through the roof traversing right. The epic extension out the roof is a closed project.

FA: craig pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

FA: Craig Pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

Extension to NMR. Rusty hangers need replacing.

Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.

FFA: Alex Turnbull, 17 Jan 2013

Start 6m left of Groundhog Day. Up the overhanging corner traversing left to clip the shared lower-off with No Membership Required.

FA: craig pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

FA: Craig Pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

The right most bolted line in Cave 5. A very tricky roof climb. So steep it goes past horizontal. Bring your bouldering arms.

FA: craig pohlman, 2005

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2006


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