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Routes in Desperation Wall for selected grade

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Showing all 3 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
12 Wasp RHV
  1. 40m Straight up to twin peg belay at the end of Wasp's second pitch

  2. 29m Same as Pitch 3 of Wasp

FA: J Mather, M Siwek & K Jesienowski, 1983

Trad 69m
12 Direttissima

Start between Wasp and Desperation Wall. This route is under-protected, beware!

  1. 26m (crux) Up easy slab, onto wall and straight up, then trend slightly right over bulge, to peg, then straight up a right trending groove on the left side of the bulge, then slightly left of white streaks, hard move onto belay ledge.

  2. 38m Climb directly up from ledge to find a peg at 12m, continue straight up to overhanging wall, then a short traverse left to the base of the groove and finish as per Wasp.

FA: Paul Caffyn, Mike Meadows & Chris Meadows, 1967

Trad 54m, 2
12 The Whiteman

Start 7m left of Orpheus. A fine route, avoids rubbish. Pro and rock good except a small patch on Pitch 2.

  1. 50m Up grey prow, over flat topped pillar. Trend slightly right to tree.

  2. 40m Following left-trending diagonal crack to tree at 25m. Before tree, up on good clean rock, then trend right to shallow block corner left of wide crack.

  3. 50m Up corner then directly up to belay in bowl below cave. Tremendous pitch!

  4. 10m Scramble up to cave.

FA: Rob Staszewski & Peter Beames, 1991

Trad 150m

Showing all 3 routes.

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