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Trojan 13 R

  • Grade context: AU
  • Height: 73m
  • Pitches: 5
  • Ascents: 65
1 13 14m
2 14m
3 15m
4 15m
5 15m

Description

Start under the main section of overhangs, and wander up the slab to a big 'T' marker in a cosy groove. A stunning old time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at the route and think 'How can this be a 13?'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! A grand testament to the pioneers of old.

  1. 14m (13 R crux) - Step out left from belay and climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Run-out in top section. Wires and cams for belay.

  2. 14m - Another bold pitch. Walk left across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 Friend in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the cave.

  3. 15m - Step out of cave and climb finger crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far right of ledge. With two 50m ropes, this provides an epic escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland.

  4. 15m - Climb the crack/corner to ledge.

  5. 15m - Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the left. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain.

Route history

12 Mar 1966First Free Ascent: Les Wood & John Tillack

Warnings

Location

Lat/Long: -26.92681, 152.94780

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

13 R,,,, Assigned grade
13
16 private

Ethic

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 79% from 40 ratings

Tick Types

Onsight 30
Flash 1
Solo 2
Red point 5
Tick 12
Lead 2
Second 5
Attempt 1

Comment keywords

sandbag hard crux mantle epic easy dodgy crack slippery crap interesting sharp rest good exciting sweet nice cool fun amazing great classic wicked fantastic awesome committing scary exposed fall runout

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