Help

Black Orpheus 10

  • Grade context: AU
  • Height: 110m
  • Pitches: 5
  • Ascents: 138
1 7 20m
2 10 20m
3 4 25m
4 10 32m
5 3 15m

Description

A great, easy 143m multipitch route although pro can be pretty sparse on p2/3. A good initiation to what to expect from Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 50m rope.

Start: About 30m R of Ishoni at big corner/gully. Marked 'BO'.

  1. 20m (7) Very easily up gully on big jugs and good pro to ledge and TB.

  2. 20m (10) Up slab (right of ledge) Then left to mount short wall (crux), onto slab & up this gully (R) with little pro to big ledge & tree belay.

  3. 25m (4) Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with minimal protection until it curves back left & you reach a tree-lined ledge. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge & belay from the small tree pinned to the wall. (You can choose to run pitch 2&3 together, beware that you may be out of earshot of your belayer.) This pitch requires a cool head: exposed pitch & minimal pro!

  4. 32m (10) Bridge up outside of chimney (crux), which is better than it looks (very good gear), traverse L along rising ledge and into corner, then over blocks to top of gully & crack & tree belay.

  5. 15m (3) Up very easy slab to big tree in Cave 3 (no gear) (Some choose to run pitch 4&5 together, on a 60m+ rope, be aware you may be out of earshot.) Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1. Alternatively, you can climb (on belay) over to the chains on Zeitgeist & abseil down this to get back to the start of the route.

© (Trent)

Route history

24 Jul 1969First Ascent: Sid Tanner & Andrew Spiers

Warnings

Location

Lat/Long: -26.92613, 152.94877

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

7,10,4,10,3 Assigned grade
10
10 ** ACA Route Register

Ethic

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 66% from 72 ratings

Tick Types

Onsight 39
Flash 1
Solo 4
Red point 8
Clean 3
Tick 17
Lead 13
Second 24
Target 1

Comment keywords

solid crux easy chimney face bad interesting bridging dry rest good exciting enjoyable nice beautiful lovely cool fun great classic fantastic awesome committing scary exposed tricky runout

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity

Check out what is happening on Black Orpheus (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.