A very rare occasion where the original ascentist advises climbers to TR it first, rather than try to onsight it.
Start just right of the initials "SD". Up terraced ledges, scant pro - first viable pro is 15m up broken, treacherous rock. top out on the shoulder above. (This is an old school route, so expect it to be more 14/15ish. It has a reputation for being run-out with no pro.)
FA:Paul Caffyn, Chris Meadows & Michael Meadows, 1968
Start between Wasp and Desperation Wall. This route is under-protected, beware!
26m (crux) Up easy slab, onto wall and straight up, then trend slightly right over bulge, to peg, then straight up a right trending groove on the left side of the bulge, then slightly left of white streaks, hard move onto belay ledge.
38m Climb directly up from ledge to find a peg at 12m, continue straight up to overhanging wall, then a short traverse left to the base of the groove and finish as per Wasp.
FA:Paul Caffyn, Mike Meadows & Chris Meadows, 1967
Start 7m left of Orpheus. A fine route, avoids rubbish. Pro and rock good except a small patch on Pitch 2.
50m Up grey prow, over flat topped pillar. Trend slightly right to tree.
40m Following left-trending diagonal crack to tree at 25m. Before tree, up on good clean rock, then trend right to shallow block corner left of wide crack.
50m Up corner then directly up to belay in bowl below cave. Tremendous pitch!