Showing all 16 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Slider Wall | |||||
16 | ★ The Horse
Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'. Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB. FA: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 12m, 4 | |||
Clemency Wall | |||||
16 | ★★ Clemency
1
15
35m
2
16
30m
3
14
32m
4
12
35m
5
9
30m
6
11
30m
A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the state for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone. Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.
A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track. FA: FA Les Wood & Donn Groom, 1966 | 190m, 6 | |||
16 | Apricots
Start from the Sent From Above anchor. Directly above the bolted anchor is a nice finger crack. Climb this for about 10m, then move right into the wide chimney-corner and romp up to the Halfway House. FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 2006 | 28m | |||
16 | ★ Dreadnought
1
50m
2
20m
3
10m
4
40m
5
35m
6
20m
7
50m
8
30m
9
30m
10
16
20m
11
40m
12
30m
Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit. Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.
FA: Ted Cais & Mike Meadows, 1970 | 380m, 12 | |||
Carborundum Wall | |||||
16 | Steaming
Bugger all gear. Dangerous. | 60m | |||
16 R | ★ Donkey Kong
Inspired by the activity on Carborundum Wall in 2019. Aptly named for the the zig-zagging nature of the route and a couple of random boulders dislodged along the way. This is an adventure route that takes you into some very impressive country with some wild positions. Routes lengths are unverified. Gear: A single rack to #3 and a set of wires. Due to the traversing nature of the climb, it is best to bring at least 6 extenders.
Decent: Either finish up the excellent final pitch of Airtime over Pumicestone (Grade 19, 40m) or rappel the route from where you are. Three rappels with 2 x 60m ropes will bring you to the ground. FA: Hamish Ousby & Jay, 27 Oct 2019 | 150m, 5, 7 | |||
Summit Caves | |||||
16 | ★★ Overexposed Direct Finish
1
15
33m
2
15
20m
3
15
17m
4
15
17m
5
16
35m
From the top of pitch 5 on Overexposed climb black wall and slab above with no protection to top. FA: John Oddie & Rick White, 1970 | 120m, 5 | |||
16 | ★★ Belly of the Beast
1
13
20m
2
16
30m
3
15
30m
4
16
40m
An adventurous route through unique and interesting terrain. Gets a star for the standout position of the line but loses some for rock quality. Start from the spooky ledge & climb inside the arching crack, the Belly of the Beast.
Option to continue up overexposed by going right after the corner in cave on pitch 4. Highly recommended due to the free solo headspace provided by the lack of gear during the fourth pitch FA: Dylan Glavas & Lee Prescott, 12 Jul 2023 | 120m, 4 | |||
Desperation Wall | |||||
16 | ★★ Line Of Credit
Start 5m L of 'Desperation Wall'. Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route.
Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here. Alternatively, head up 3m from P2 anchors to bushy ledge and walk left to join up with the Caves Route. FA: Darrin Carter & Kevin Coleman, 2004 | 70m, 2, 23 | |||
16 | ★ The Ideas Man Extension
First climb Ideas Man (crux) but continue past IM anchors for another 5m to a DBB. P2) 14 - 40m continue up following line of least resistance passing one FH to DBB. P3) 16 - 30m continue up faint features with gear and two FH to DBB. P4) 10m either straight up to DBB or escape right to Zeitgeist anchors. | 80m, 4, 3 | |||
Candy Mountain | |||||
16 | ★ The Real Rainbow Unicorn
Start 2m R of 'Lichen the Candy'. Unmarked. Follow the line of 5 FHs to a dedicated DBB. The crux sequence will definitely keep you interested at the grade. FFA: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013 | 18m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Fairy Floss
FFA: Steve Kloske, Zac Trembath-pitham & Oskar Kindbom, 2013 | 18m, 6 | |||
NE Buttress Sector | |||||
16 | ★★ Blabbermouth
1
12
28m
2
16
34m
3
16
33m
4
13
20m
5
14
28m
6
13
32m
7
10
20m
Start at L-hand corner of alcove, 8m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress' before the ground drops away.
Rack: to #3 friend. FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 200m, 7, 6 | |||
Shadow Glen | |||||
16 | Domestos
Dangerous and dirty. Start 2m right of Suburban Sprawl. Up very thin crack (RPs) to slabby face above. Up this boldly with no pro to toilet-bowl stance then slab up to tree belay. FA: Heath Black & karl curnow, 1996 | 15m | |||
16 R | ★ Highlander
A long full length slab route with a handful of bolts down low - and runout trad terrain up high. Despite appearances - this is not a sport route! There is a long runout between the first two bolts, and the top half is entirely trad on small marginal gear. Starts 5m right of Vagabond and just right of scungy crack. Up wall past FH to stance. Edge up slab above on good finger holds trending slightly right (2 FHs) until you reach the cracks. Fill these with pro then continue up easier slab above on minimal pro to final headwall finish. A small RP and various sized cams protect this last 10m. Tree belay and walk down. FA: Heath Black & Marten Blumen, 1996 | 45m, 3 | |||
South Face | |||||
16 | Safe Space
ACCESS: The start of this climb is on Leftist wall, the obvious wall level with the 3rd pitch of Traxion Action on climbers left. Access the wall by doing the first 2 1/2 pitches of Traxion Action. On the third pitch follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of TA. The small tree at the base marks the start of the climb. Go past the small tree and under the potential crack climb containing a precarious fridge sized block. The climb starts towards the far left and heads up to the arete. There are several places where you will need to avoid potential loose rock, finding a mix of reasonable and good placements. This pitch will clean up well eventually but be careful as there is potential for pulling rocks onto your belayer. Work your way over the top to a double bolt anchor. Rap from here or continue up Oppression Obsession. A 70m rope will just reach the ground or you can rap down the ramp to the right to the first achors of oppression obsession. FA: Hamish Ousby & Matt Hunter | 35m |
Showing all 16 routes.