Routes in Mt Tibrogargan for selected grade

Start 3m R of 'Pigsy'.

Bit of a one move wonder. Better than it looks. 5 FHs to anchor.

The furthest left route on the small cliff. Pleasant climbing straight up.

Start: At the belay anchor at the top of Troposphere's second pitch.

Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join 'C Section'. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start.

Start: A couple of metres R beneath bolted corner

Up past a couple of FH's to rooflet. Interesting moves pulling R around this. Join Tenacious D to finish.

Start: 1m R on the fallen block beneath the bolted corner.

Up the steep little corner passing FH's to a ledge. Step R to clip bolt on bulge, then up to clip anchor on R. A nice moderate sport route for 'Halfway House'.

Start: At the "D", directly beneath impressive bright orange corner 60m up, 2m L of Guenevere.

Climb 4m up to R-facing sickle-corner. Up this to bulge and clip FH. Steep corner through bulge, then follow up L to join Clemency's second pitch at the white flake. Continue up and then move L to ledge with DBB from here you can continue up the Tested Twistical variants.

1. 30m (19) Start as per PC, up crack on good gear to overhang, then straight up through the shallow chimney on scant holds & gear, to gain ledge above, then trend Right along this to crack corner & belay.

2. 32m (13) Up the obvious crack corner, beautiful laybacking, bridging and wall climbing & solid gear. Gain a small stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree/bush.

3. 32m (12) Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge & TB. From here, head up Right, across a vegetated scree slope, to join the Caves Route below Trojan.

A proud line. Start by scrambling up onto vegetated terrace 25m right of Line of Credit, then walk off left end of terrace 3m to tree. Belay out of wide crack. Double ropes essential. Up left around bulge, then up to first of three black FH's. Up and left to ledge (big gear). Right off ledge to horizontal break in superb marble-like stone, then back left to FH. A long undercling move, then up to last FH. RP's take you up the ever steepening wall, then a good wire and a thankful rest on easy ground. Slab to chains. Well protected with careful placements.

Groove/crack to its end. Up wall trending right to S crack and double hanger anchor with quick links. Small to medium gear. Well protected along the route and before the cruxes.

Start 2m R of Old Elvis, unmarked.

A popular line that follows 5 FHs before trending L to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Old Elvis.

An adventure route up an interesting section of Tibro. Take some long slings and 14 draws and either a double rope or trail a second rope if rapping (40m rap). Optional #3 C4 Camalot or medium hex, although most leaders will be confident running it out or slinging ironwoods in the absence of gear. There are some run out sections and there are patches of poor rock, interspersed with sections of fun and exposed climbing.

Access: From the old climber's carpark, take the right fork of the Tibrogargan track, heading north. Follow the track until you reach some chairs and a picnic table, after which you'll ascend some steps to find a small trail leaving the main track on the left. Follow this to the base of Candy Mountain. The Ross Miller Route starts directly above this small crag. To access this ledge, head left uphill until the rock face turns back in to form an alcove with a large tree in it. Scramble up the rock on the right-hand side of the tree and traverse right for about 20m. You will find a leftward trending gully with bolts on the headwall directly on its right-hand side. The route begins here.

Route:

1. 25m (18) Up to FH then tricky moves right to 2nd FH, follow the line of FH's avoiding suspect rock as necessary.

2. 25m (15) Typical Tibro face climbing following line of FH's, when you reach the ironwood bushes, clip the abseil re-direct sling and continue up and left to the anchor.

3. 20m (11) Head up the obvious corner directly above the anchor (optional gear) to the tree (sling), continue up the corner to the next tree (sling) then delicately step right and head up to FH on headwall then continue up to anchor.

4. 25m (18) Up following FH's right of blunt arete.

5. 25m (19) Engaging climbing following FH's into corner and out onto top face, continue up to anchor.

6. 15m (13) Climb slabby section following FH's trending left in the second half to anchor at base of head wall.

7. 15m (19) Left off the belay to first FH then cruxy moves for a couple of metres past FH's to anchor avoiding the crumbly holds.

8. 30m (16) Follow the line of well-spaced FH's to anchor, stop to peer into the madness of sport climbing in cave 5 on the way.

There are various descent options, including:

• Continue climbing slightly left and up unprotected but easy climbing and good rock and either rappel left into Cave 5 or down the Caves Route chimney then descend the Caves Route, or

• Traverse right along ledge to scrubby bushes and the 5th anchor of SBB, climb its (unprotected) 6th pitch and walk off, or

• Rap back down the route in 6 pitches:

  1) 30m Straight down to previous anchor (top pitch 7).

  2) 40m Straight down to anchor at top of 5.

  3) 40m Down into free air and then scramble left to anchor at top of pitch

  4) 20m Straight down between the trees then scramble left on the ledge to anchor at top of pitch 2, be careful of loose blocks and small rocks here.

  5) 25m Traverse out right underneath ironwood bushes and clip rope through permanent sling and biner to redirect abseil (missing as of August 2018, rap straight back down to anchor at top of pitch 1 or it may be possible to reach the ground on a 50m rap.

  6) 25m To ground and scramble out the way you came in.

Start at the 'Rock Garden' chimney at R end of alcove, 10m L of the 'Peeping Tom' pillar at 'Shadow Glen'. Marked with a small square.

1. 28m (18) Climb up the 'Rock Garden' chimney for a few moves then step R and follow line of FHs to DBB.

2. 34m (16) Follow FHs traversing L (line of FHs going R then up is 'The Chris Mann Route') across 'Rock Garden' to DBB shared with 'Blabbermouth'. End of this pitch is very run out without trad gear.

3. 25m (19) Straight up past 3 FHs then traverse directly L following more FHs to DBB. Due to traversing involved, the second needs to be confident.

4. 36m (16) Follow FHs L then up to DBB.

5. 45m (14) Gradient easing now. Well-spaced FHs (can supplement with occasional trad placement) to DBB.

6. 20m (10) Solo up short easy wall to DBB at top.