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Routes in Mt Tibrogargan for selected grade

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Showing all 18 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Slider Wall
21 Pigsy

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

Stickclip recommended. Four FH's to anchor shared with Tripitaka. Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

FA: ross ferguson, Gareth Llewellin, susy goldner & A. Dougal, 2004

Sport 12m, 4
21 The Most Monstrous Monster

... of a Jug. So big in fact that it'll be full of water after rain! Enjoy the shower.

Sport 13m, 4
21 A Shadow So Huge

Start on next platform up right from What we do in the Shadows.

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

FA: ross ferguson & Geoffrey, 2007

Sport 8m, 3
21 The Robot Devil

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law.

FA: Natalie's project; Ryan Castel

FA: Ryan Castel, 2005

Sport 15m
21 Overseer

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: Up the first 3 bolts of 'The Final Piece' then walk up the slab to a anchor bolt with a single ring, straight up from here to access Overseer.

Sport 27m, 11
Celestial Wall
21 Fat Shamed by Gravity
1 21
2 19

Start 10m left of Troposphere P1 on flat ground on the track leading towards Slider Gully.

  1. 30m 21 - Up fairly easy ground past 3 bolts to the first ledge which has a hanging on top of it. Up 2 large steps to a bolt and a couple of jugs. Haul yourself upwards on easy but impressive feeling moves to a cardboard feeling jug. Clip the next bolt and work your way through the crux moves. Clip another bolt and then traverse left and up to the obvious ledge to the belay anchors. A tight but bomber 0.5 camalot protects the traverse for the second.

  2. 28m 19 - Start out on easy ground up to an orange corner. Work your way up through the crux moves and a few more bolts. There is room to place another bomber 0.5 camalot to make the next section feel less run out, then up past 2 more bolts to the anchor.

Currently, the best option is to rap from here, although you can climb up through the bit of bush and link it to the mixed climb NGFG.

FA: Matt Hunter & Alex Cristino, 14 Mar 2021

Sport 60m, 2, 20
Halfway House
21 Cunningly Deceptive

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill.

Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to anchor on steep wall.

FFA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2003

Mixed trad 25m, 2
Porcelain Wall
21 Floater

Furthest left bolted route on the wall. Seven FH’s and a medium wire

FA: Craig Pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

Mixed trad 20m, 7
Carborundum Wall
21 Every Day I Start To Ooze

Start: 2m R of 'Liquid Skin' and 3m L of obvious sickle crack. Some small gear below headwall, up this, passing 4 FHs to shared chains. Often wet.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

Mixed trad 18m, 4
21 Phoenix
1 19 25m
2 15 25m
3 21 20m

Rising out of the ashes of the 2014 tibro fires.

  1. 25m (19) 5FHs: Start at the big tree at the apex of the path (just to the right of CC). Veers left for first 2 bolts then straight up past 3rd FH to old rap chain on ledge, then continue up and R past 1 FH to DBB.

  2. 25m (15) 7FHs: Nice moves keeping L of the FHs all the way up the black wall to the big belay ledge and DBB. Sustained and enjoyable climbing.

  3. 20m (21) 8FHs. Up slabby climbing past 3FHs to good rest before powering up the crux section consisting of 2 small parallel chimneys to nice foot ledge. It's not over yet, then balancy, crimpy climbing for 2 bolts and easy moves to DBB.

Rap down the way you went up.

Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2013

FA: Nigel Joyce & Zac Trembath-pitham, 2014

FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 11 May 2014

Sport 70m, 3, 21
21 Insurrection VS

4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?

Sport 28m, 8
21 Airtime Over Pumicestone
1 18 35m
2 18 30m
3 21 40m
4 19 40m
5 2 60m
6 19 40m

Take wires and cams to #3, with a strong emphasis on small cams such as aliens.

  1. 35m (18) Easily up L trending ramp to white corner (FH). L up this and R onto ledge above bush. Traverse R up slab (FH) to vertical section. Carefully place gear then crank up this to easier ground. Two close FHs lead up slab and over small rooflet to rap station.

  2. 30m (18) Take lots of small cams. Up and slightly L 5m, then almost directly L 3m past gear slots. Move up past FH to gain corner on R side of the big orange roof. Through corner to rest ledge above roof. Straight up from ledge without falling for 5m to FH, then a big traverse back R above your belayer to solid black rock. Up past FH to rap station under blocky arête (60m rap to ground). Mind rope drag on this wandering pitch.

  3. 40m (21) Cruxy right off the belay. 11 FHs up exposed blocky arête. The arête terminates into a wide gully with a rap station on L. Peregrine Falcons nest just 10 metres to the right of this pitch so best to avoid in breeding season (August to November).

  4. 40m (19) Climb the nice wall on L side of gully (four FHs) to an easy slab. Run up this (two FHs and gear) to where it steepens. Two FHs and a big hollow flake allow you to get across the chasm to ledge and rap station.

  5. 60m (2) Climb up onto vegetated ridge. Walk L until it's possible to scramble up onto the next terrace. Walk all the way back R along this to find a FH on the wall.

  6. 40m (19) An unlikely but excellent start past the FH leads into a groove. Carefully up this to ledge on L. Up the headwall slab above (four FHs) to rap station.

Either scramble up 50m to summit and walk off, or rap the route.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2003

Mixed trad 250m, 6, 24
Summit Caves
21 Ronald Muck

This route climbs up the left wall of the big corner, it starts directly below the half way anchor there is a pulled expansion bolt as a marker. Small gear and two FHs sees you to the half way rap rings, straight up following FHs and solid gear placements. Make you way over tricky bulge and blast straight up, rap station on the right. A 60m rope will get you back to the ground in two raps.

FA: craig pohlman & Robert Audsley, 2005

Mixed trad 45m, 9
21 Big Empty
1 21 30m
2 21 15m
  1. 30m (21) Start at line of five FHs up wall just right of Short and Sweet. This is technical slab weirdness on great rock. A green cam/friend protects the final section to the anchor. Move right at top to find anchor, or if you're doing pitch 2, make a trad belay on big ledge just before the last steep bit of the corner on Short and Sweet.

  2. 15m (21) The first FH is up on the left wall and is a stretch to clip. Don't mistakenly use the first bolt of Adrenaline Gives Me Gas (further down in corner) or the first FH of Walk the Line (further up right in corner). Swing up left on jugs to gain hanging juggy wall and second FH (shared with Walk the Line). Continue straight up passing another two FHs through steepening terrain to join Circlet at its third RB. Finish up this to lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewellin, 2000

FA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2006

Sport 45m, 2
21 Unharnessed Desire

First climb you come to in the cave. Up flakey orange rock on slopey holds, to hard move around bulge. Finish 3m up head wall.

FFA: Ryan Castel, 2017

Sport 10m
Desperation Wall
21 Straight to the Pool Room

Start to the left of Ishoni. Looks unlikely from the ground but is much better than you think. Starts off the left end of the ledge with easy climbing on medium sized gear then FH's up steep headwall. Absolutely outstanding after the start.

FA: G Llewellin R Ferguson, 2007

Trad 30m
NE Buttress Sector
21 El Scorcho
1 21 53m
2 19 24m
3 14 32m

To start, climb the first two pitches of either Blabbermouth or Sunburnt Buttress.

  1. 53m (21) Follow the first four FH's of SB until it traverses left. Instead of traversing, head straight up for three more FH's then traverse left below obvious short corner to FH. From here, go up passing five more FH's trending rightward. Belay is up and left from last FH. Taking half a dozen long runners is recommended to reduce rope drag on this long pitch.

  2. 24m (19) Step left off belay then up passing six FH's. Eases off in second half.

  3. 32m (14) Clip a FH then gradually join the 5th pitch of SB clipping it's last few FH's.

Pitch 2 and 3 have a couple of optional trad pieces. To finish, either continue up last pitch of SB (10) or rappel Blabbermouth (3x60m raps) or El Scorcho (3x60m raps)

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2005

Mixed trad 110m, 3, 15
Shadow Glen
21 Suburban Sprawl Variant

First two bolts of Suburban Sprawl then head right to finish up Domestos. First lead ascent is unknown - but has been done several times.

FA: Karl Curnow (Toprope), 1996

Mixed trad 15m, 2

Showing all 18 routes.

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