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Park in the Burwood Rd car park, follow main foot path down wooden bridge, past not crossing the suspension bridge. keep walking a further 600m along southern side of lagon till you reach a small clearing on your left, you can just see the ocean through the trees. Follow faint trail down the hill and towards the left to the base of the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Glenrock Lagoon

Located in glenrock state recreational area, inbetween the suburbs of Mereweather and Kahibah/Charlestown.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The route to the right of the cave.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2004

FA: T Lee, 2004

Start as for Gimlis Gripe then traverse R to finish up adjacent route.

FA: V Wills, 2004

Follow the line of fixed hangers. Tough start then up on some good pockets. Be wary at start, the arch has moved and could collapse. You can start this route from the routes to the left or right.

FA: Trent Lee, 2003

FA: Trent Lee, 2003

Sustained face climbing with two crux moves. A key pebble broke off in 2014, making this route probably 24

Start: 2m left of GG

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

Sequential start leads to sneaky no hands rest then blast through to the top. Save something for the top

Start: 2.5m left of WITW. Up left of 2nd cave

FA: Trent Lee, 2004

Start as for hand shandy, straight up past some cool pockets to finish on anchors of TSCU.

FA: Tim Haasnoot & Justin Jefferson, 2004

Climb the left hand end of the wall past 3 rings trending left to anchors.

FA: Justin Jefferson & Tim Haasnoot, 2004

very technical, sustained and bouldery, and contrived. Climbing up the arete.

FA: Gavin Portier

Climb right side of arete to 2nd bolt then move left above the honeycomb section to big moves to the top. Steep!

Slightly marred by sandy holds


Climb the overhanging arete on the right hand end of the chossy cave. Climbs well.

FA: V Wills, 2007

Climb grimy worm tongue, putting a very long sling on the anchor, then continue left to reverse the traverse of the Sods to its starting point under hobbits pockets without resting.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2016

Start traverse left to right on Traverse of the Sods then in the middle of the cave punch straight up through the roof.

Set by John Hollott, 1 Oct 2016

Traverse under roof from near Hiliary Step to finish on anchors for Grimy Wormtongue

FA: John Hollott, 6 Mar 2012

Mantle block, up slab to head wall, grab 2 holds, lunge and then top out. No lower off

Start: left end of cave.

FA: Gavin Portier, 30 Jun 2009

From the block, follow the line of 'heucos' to the top. Sounds good doesn't it?? Ok climbing better than it looks but needs more traffic.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004

Short route behind the tree. 1.5m left of HP

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2004


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