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Billywing Buttress 🚫

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 1

Climbing in this area is closed.

Access: Climbing restrictions may apply

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing restrictions may apply at certain locations. Formal advice has changed several times during 2019.

Please refer to the following link for PV's current advice:

https://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/plans-and-projects/rock-climbing-faq

For a list of crags in SPA areas see:

https://savegrampiansclimbing.org/the-ban/closed-areas/

See warning details and discuss

Created 10 months ago - Edited 10 weeks ago

Summary

This crag has been closed by National Parks (February 2019). Please do not climb here until further notice.

© (kieranl)

Description

The main south-west outcrop at Buandik. Billywing Bluff is the distinctive overhanging red wall at the west end. The first climbs are on the north side, just downhill from the Lego Blocks.

The climbs are described in an ant-clockwise direction.

© (kieranl)

Access issues

ACAV Note: Parks Victoria has advised that rock climbing is prohibited at this location. Legally enforceable signage has been erected and fines of up to 10 penalty units (approximately $1600) may be incurred for persons found to be rock climbing at this location.

© (kieranl)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians access issues have emerged due to potential damage to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Leave no trace and treat everything with care.

The following is a basic list of things climbers in the Grampians need to be aware of. For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Climber’s Code

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - don’t create rock cairns or leave marking tape.

Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

Vegetation, even on cliff faces, is protected. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

Large groups can create problems of crowding and excessive damage around cliffs. If you plan to take a group of ten or more people climbing, you are required to register to ensure there is space.

Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Don't climb near Aboriginal sites

Vehicles must stay on roads open to the public; off-road driving is illegal.

Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

Keep campsites clean.

Avoid all risk of fire - do not light campfires outside of official campground metal fire pits.

Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out) Do not pollute water supplies.

Respect established climbing traditions in ethical matters such as the use of chalk, pitons, bolts etc.

Avoid indiscriminate or excessive use of fixed equipment.

Responsible climbing will protect cliffs and ensure continued rockclimbing

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the centre of the wall. The fingery start eases to pleasant bucket hauling.

Start: Just inside the wider, central chasm is a steep wall on the left.

FA: Michael Hampton & Peter Campbell, 1993

The crack in the nose right of "Honey Pot".

FA: Peter Campbell & Michael Hampton, 1983

Another Buandik gem.

Start at the head of the next chasm.

Chimney up to gain elegant flake corner/crack. Descend via the exposed, juggy terrace to the west.

FA: Michael Hampton & Rhyl Shaw.(FTRA Peter Campbell), 1993

Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Closed Billywing Bluff Cliff
7
1
29m
Closed Warlu Buttreszs Cliff
2
0
20m

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