Routes as trad in The Black Range

Bouldery start leads into sketchy dirty slab climbing. May see a few more punters with a good scrubbing and some "protection enhancers"

Diagonal crack left of HFAM.

Direct up wall between WSTS and AAA. Small edges but no tree.

Right angled corner.

Fantastic little climb, with plenty of small to medium gear. Follow the most obvious crack line on wall. Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence. Climb seeps water when wet.

Up small crack system, with a bolt protecting the crux. Topping out is currently mossy, but will clean up over time. Fixed hangers to belay from about five metres back from top.

Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence.

3m right of 'DIBEAPCP'[12978997].

Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence.

Start as for Snapper Crack. Step L up past 2FH and wires

"An exciting climb which is guaranteed to leave your forearms screaming. It takes the right leading crack about 15m right of the descent gully. Up the slab and into the crack. Jam your way to stance under roof, then finish up pumpy wall past fixed pegs." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs). Home of an active bee hive as of May 2020.

"Varied and interesting climbing on rock that is reminiscent of Arapiles. Start 3m right of Snapper Crack. Up the slab, then up an awkward seam. Continue diagonally across and up wall till a couple of hard moves bring the overlap to hand. Finish up tiring wall." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

3m R of What's the Verdict. Climb the line direct past 2FH & trad gear

Crack with a small cave at its base.

Starts just left of Slanderous Discourse. Up past RB & wires to double UB abseil

Start up the attractive sickle-shaped crack just left of the yucky chimney descent, follow holds left at the break to a thin seam (microwires); then a desperate move back R to finish straight up. If you keep stepping L to finish up arete, it's a reasonable 22.

"Interesting and thought provoking climbing up slabby rock. Start 3m right of horrible chimney at rightward curving crack. Move up and left to faint crack, follow this until it fades, then step right and up." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"The crack and unlikely bulge immediately right of GBH. The name says it all." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs).

PS nobody these days can explain how "the name says it all".

"An interesting variant start to Bagatelle. Takes the low angled crack in the grey slab 5m left of Bagatelle before moving right and finishing as for that route." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"Start at the corner system near the right end of the grey, lichen covered slab. Initialled. Follow the left crack and finish up the left hand corner." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"A slightly tricker finish to Bagatelle. Up Bagatelle then follow the right hand corner/ crack to the top. Beware of loose rock on the stance below final off-width." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"This superb climb tackles the attractive orange rock passing three bolts, immediately right of Bagatelle. Unfortunately the second bolt is poorly positioned and might be preferable to pre-clip it with a sling before starting." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

2m L of The Willows Milkbar. 3 RB's & small to medium wires.

"The wall 4m left of Mr Meaner has a couple of lines with common start. Move left into curving flake and turn the bulge at its left end." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs). After moving left from 'Murder One', this route manages to stay independent of its neighbour, despite appearances.

"This companion route to The Willows Milkbar offers interesting climbing up the thin right leaning seam before finishing with an amusing mantle over a small overhang."

"This alluring arete is a committing lead and is a popular top rope problem. Don't forget your RP's. Up the wall and arête 5m left of Short Term." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs).

The first gear is reached at about 4m, consisting of crappy RPs and a tiny crack where you can finally use those cams you bought for aid climbing. Climb another 4m or so above this before reaching your next gear. Alternatively, enjoy the route on top rope and walk away.

"The mean looking, black crackless corner, starting from the terrace." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"What on earth has this name Pudgy got to do with legal stuff is anyone's guess. Desperately thin wall climbing which is also a wee bit committing up high. Up the wall with the ring bolt, 5m left of Caveat Emptor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"This tricky face climb was originally led by Richard Smith without the bolt. It was placed shortly after by Louise Shepard who was unaware of Smithy's ascent. The arete just left of Barbed Tongue." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"This route offers excellent and sustained bridging. Start at the small corner with the twin cracks, just left of Red Tape. Faintly Initialed. Climb the corner up to the triangular roof and continue up the left line to the top." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Initialed faintly. Start at small corner with the twin cracks left of Red Tape. Climb corner to triangular roof and continue up right line to top.

"I suppose being the hardest route on the cliff gives it some status. From the flake (loose rock) 2m right of Barbed Tongue, climb the wall past two bolts." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"I'm sure Chris and Glenn have plenty to confess! A fiery number up an unlikely and poorly protected line. Follow the crack which becomes a gnarly closed seam 8m left of "The Jury Box" (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

"Squirm up the old fashioned crack and chimney. Initialed"

"Not long after the first ascent of this route, Mark wrote a thought provoking article called, 'Life and Death: a Climbers Guide.' It was especially poignant as it was written just prior to his death on Makalu in the Himalaya. This route however isn't quite in the same league as his other creations. Start on the arete immediately right of The Jury Box. Up and across to the bolt, then move back left and finish straight up the arete." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Start on blunt arête just R of Jury Box (just near an active beehive at ground level - as of May 2020). Follow the 4 FH, after 4th FH stay R of arête on face for full value to a red/yellow BD C3 SLCD prior to topping out.

Start 5m R of AA. Straight up past 4 FH & red or yellow BD C3, large & small wires to DRB lower off.

"A surprisingly technical tips crack. The thin, overhanging crack 5m left of Prosecutor." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs).

"An entertaining problem that tackles the bulging wall between Zuma and Prosecutor. Scoot into the final hand-crack of Prosecutor to finish." (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest; Grampians Selected Climbs)

Initialed. Undercut crack providing sustained jamming. There was a cam (BD C4 #0.3) stuck in the crux May 2016. Don't bother trying to retrieve it - it has a broken trigger wire, so pulling the release does nothing.

Blunt arête past 2 FHs to half height then traverse way L into Prosecutor to finish.

As for Persona Non Grata but blast straight on up blunt arête past 3 more FHs to DRB lower off.

You may wish to take some small wires to protect the moves after the second bolt.

Start is 2m left of Decree Nisi. Up short crack to bulge onto bolt. Easier face climbing above.

Faintly initialed. Nice corner with tree near the top. Clean climbing with a mixture of bridging and face climbing.

Contrived divergence from Decree Nisi. At the tree, climb the off-width crack directly throught the small roof, religiously avoiding the obvious line to the left.

Variant start to Decree Nisi which starts 5m right. Onto flat top the follow lines curving left into Decree Nisi.

Starts as for Unfit to Stand. Up for 5m then follow right flake. Keep going right then up wall past bolt. Beware of dangerous block.

Start up the seam in the arête left of GP. Protects with RPs. Step left and up over bulge to Good gear and up to terrace. Finish as for GP.

Takes the left crack underneath the "toilet seat." Follow greasy crack to top.

Takes right crack up through the "toilet seat." Well protected.

Start up CL head 3m right at ledge to 1st SS glue in carrot. Straight up past 2 more SS glue in carrots to DRB lower off.

Start a few metres left of Objection Sustained. Up through a small overhang, then the loose line to the cave. Push through last overhang and up to the top.

Initialed. Excellent route following steep intimidating crack. Start 6m left of camping cave straight up the overhanging crack. Crux is near the final bulge overhang. Protection is fantastic the whole way, sucking up red and yellow BD Camelot's.

Start as for Uno Flatu past overhang joining ToJ at finger crack

Between OS & MI the arête the whole way. 3FH. Medium SLCD's below last FH

Start as for Malicious Intent and follow the corner until the overhang. Traverse left to gain the overhanging arête and follow the thin crack to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Start on the left side of the cave. Climb the broken corner to a ledge, then pull over an overhang to a guano- stained ledge (loose rock). Up the steep crack to a horizontal break on the left wall, and then crank for the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009).

To help protect rock art in the cave, when starting the route it is requested that you avoid the black overhung offwidth crack, and instead use the easy broken handcrack an arm span to the left (I think we can be pretty sure that this is the way that everyone has climbed this route since the beginning of time, and this start doesn't need to be written up as a different route).

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

To protect rock art, it is requested that the first pitch of this route not be climbed. The second pitch can still be climbed (easily traverse in from 'Malicious Intent'), and the description from the 2001 Grampians Guidebook remains accurate: "Up the bulging arete past a really shitty bolt up high". 2 carrots.

To protect rock art, it is requested that this route not be climbed.

From the right side of the cave, hurl yourself at the undercut line which is initialled. Continued up the line, hand traversing left beneath a roof near the top the last part is a tad reachy. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

As for Legal Aid but traverse right past a bolt.

Requires tube chooks or some other form of large protection. Tackles the sickening cleft not far right of the camping cave. Up chimney, then up the overhanging off-width via laybacking and the occasional face hold. (The chockstones described in the Mentz/Tempest guide are no longer present.)

Start 5 metres right of Power Without Glory at the thin line above the undercut start. Chin the roof on good jugs, then step right and up into thin line to the cave. Move up the right and onto the arête (dubious protection). Finish up short wall. It's possible to traverse a further 2 metres right before heading up, but this is probably trickier. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

6m right of Carnal Knowledge, where the rock can be reached to the left of the scalloped wall. Pull up and left to the orange line. Up into the cave and a bolt belay. Inspect the bolt before use.

If steep bolted climbs are your thing, then you'll love the few metres of new climbing that this route provides. Unfortunately you'll have to climb the first two thirds of 'Guilty' first, then traverse L on good edges into base of cave. Finish past 3 FHs to DRB lower off.

Start below a loose cracked arête left of Subpoena. Heave up and follow the thin line, steeping right at the top. Finish boldly up the blunt arête. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009).

Despite this route being written up as having "a scary finish", you can place about as much gear as you like before lurching up the finishing moves.

Thin seams on left wall of Subpeona with just enough gear. By the time you get to the guano soaked holds, you will be wishing that someone had scrubbed them clean for you first. After the guano, step right to finish up 'Subpoena'.

50m or so right of the cave is a striking corner. Initialled. There is frequently an active beehive over the lip near the top. They were quite active 1st April 2016.

Start a few metres right of Street Legal. Straight up past three bolts, then up to reach left to clip the fourth bolt of Street Legal. Continue to the Street Legal anchors.

Some new climbing on this wall, enabled in part by the squeeze job of Hoon Laws. Start up Hang On, then easily across the hanging slab clipping 2 bolts. Arrange some small wires then straight up to obvious cave/hole. Over this (no gear!) then step R to finish.

Bold climbing up the wall 8 metres right of Subpoena. Up to ledge, (where protection is available) and continue to the cave. Step left and finish up the wall passing some loose rock along the way. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

As for Hang On to the stance below the curving crack. Step right and up past a peg runner to good holds on the bulge above. Into the cave right, then up. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

10m right of The Hanging. Bridge corner, walk left across cave, step out and up the pillar.

Up the red strip on good in cut holds to a small stance. Move right and up to the overlap, then back left and pull through. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009)

Start standing on a detached pinacle, then wander up the blunt arete and through the overlap at the finish, with sparse pro and uninspiring rock.

The small (initialled) corner 3 metres right of Mitigating Circumstances.

The wall right of False Pretences is broken by a distinctive curving crack just left of a crappy gully. Up this crack then straight to the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009) gear tricky. Two Belay bolts on top.