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Description

An excellent little cliff of steep orange rock. Cliff faces northeast

Access issues inherited from Halls Gap Area

A low profile always helps to avoid too much attention from tourists and park rangers

Approach

Follow Tunnel Road southwest off the Ararat-Halls Gap Road 1km northwest of Pomonal. When it ends at a farmhouse (on left), turn right. Drive a further 1.5km until below the cliff. Walk up west to it.

Descent notes

Descent can be made by a 32m abseil from the tree atop Face Value. However, you can easily walk down either end of the cliff. Note: abseil tree is referenced from 2001.

Ethic inherited from Halls Gap Area

Bolting, is considered illicit, along with the rest of the park and other National Parks within Victoria. Only alter routes after considerable consultation with first ascensionests and local climbers.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

This is on a small wall up left of the main cliff. The wall 4m left of a diagonal weakness and large tree on the left side of the face. Climb above the bulge then finish up the cracks on the left.

FA: Graham Gittins & Wayne Maher, 1992

The attractive left-facing flake-crack on the lower tier, towards the left end of the face.

FA: Chris Baxter & Sue Baxter, 1987

A very good route that climbs the major, left-facing corner in the upper left section of the cliff.

  1. 18m From the small cairn 10m right of Fool's Gold, climb the slabby wall to a large tree (landmark) at the right end of a bushy ledge. Up the corner just right of this to a major horizontal break. Head left on this for 3m to a corner with a wide crack (#4 Friend for belay).

  2. 17m (crux) Step up left to the next corner and climb it.

FA: Chris Baxter & Kieran Loughran, 1992

Good, varied climbing. Cairned. This and other names commemorate the experience of walking in circles below the crag in thick fog.

  1. 18m (crux) Straight up the hard little groove 3m right of The Desperate and Divided Years to a horizontal break. Climb the steep wall above, then easy climbing to below a roof. Up the flakes to under the right side of the roof, then go left under it and back right up the crack above it to a corner.

  2. 12m Step right onto the arete and climb it in a dramatic position.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1992

  1. 16m Start up the shallow groove 7m right of Jane Duff Memorial. Veer slightly right and climb the steep little corner to a ledge below the headwall.

  2. 10m Climb the crack above.

FA: Glen Donohue, Wayne Maher (alternate leads) & andrew webb, 1992

A very good climb

  1. 16m Start up the left-leading diagonal crack 3m right of Sisters of the Sun, and immediately left of the small pillar. Climb above the bulge, go slightly left up the slab to the corner. Step left and up the rib to a ledge below a finger-crack.

  2. 10 (crux) Climb the crack.

FA: Glen Donohue, Wayner Maher (pitch two) & andrew webb, 1992

Variants on Late for the Sky. Climb up the corner, as for Late for the Sky, but continue up the crack. Head left below an overlap and up the hanging corner as for Late for the Sky. Traverse right at the overlap to a flake, head up this and the crack above.

FA: Wayne Maher & Graham Gittins, 1992

Good Climbing. Head up the juggy crack on the small buttress 1m right of Late for the Sky. Pull onto the slab above the steep section and go up to the overlap. Go 2m right under this, then climb the wall to join Epic Master at a small tree.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1992

Tackles the middle of the main orange wall with good, sustained climbing. Needs cleaning. Climb the lichenous groove with chicken heads near the middle of the wall, and 2m right of Lost in the Bush. This leads to the foot of an orange ramp which sweeps up left past a small tree to finish steeply straight up.

FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 1992

Brilliant corner.

  1. 20m From below a block on the ground below the major right-facing corner in the upper half of the main cliff, go up right, then back up left on slabs. Take the short corner to a ledge below the main corner.

  2. 20m (crux) Climb the corner.

FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter (alternate leads), 1992

Fierce and sustained wall climbing with mediocre protection.

  1. 20m Head up Cash Cow to belay.

  2. 20m (crux) Start 1.5m right of the corner. Head up and slightly right, then up and a little left.

FA: Wayne Maher & Chrix Baxter, 1992

Good. Start on the bushy terrace behind the top of Fool's Gold and The Desperate and Divided Years up the left of the two shallow, left-facing corners. Climb up to a crack in the bulge, then the twin cracks through the next bulge. Finish up The Desperate and Divided Years.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1995

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