Dreamtime Wall Rock climbing111 routes in crag
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A great range of sport climbing, particularly in the middle grades. The first series of buttresses are - while small - very compact rock and offer excellent climbing, and the further walls offer more length and flavor. Be warned however there is still a fair bit of loose rock around as many routes have not had lots of ascents so take care, and ensure you always wear a helmet, especially below other climbers.
PS there is a free PDF guide which is more up to date than this page located here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4sVnfPm_Um4QlZnYlh1ZWJhWjA (feel free to pass on any updates about this guide to josef.goding (at) gmail (dot) com© (jgoding)
Access issues inherited from Grampians
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview
From Halls Gap, drive approx 25km south along the bitumen road to Dunkeld. Turn right (east) onto the dirt, cross a small bridge, wind your way up and over the Serra Range (3.9km), then turn right onto the Henham track when it starts to flatten out. Take this for 5.6km north to road junction.
The Henham track has recently been re-graded by parks, and is currently ok with a 2wd vehicle, but can be also get very rocky and rough after periods of less maintenance. Many a car has bottomed out because the driver was fanging it too hard, so take it slow and watch out for rocks!
The car park is 5.6km north of the junction between the Serra Road and Henham track (S37 20.870 E142 29.052). The car park is: S37 18.345 E142 28.881 *Note there is now a small (3 car) parking spot just beside the dry river bed, which saves you a few minutes on the walk in & out. DO NOT BLOCK THE ROAD.
The cliff can be found in the Serra Range, around 10km south of Mt Rosea. Best access is (from Halls Gap) head south for 24.8km then turn right onto the Serra Track. Follow Serra Track for 3.9km up and over the range, down the other side and just as it starts to flatten out turn right onto the Henham track. Proceed roughly north for 4.9km, then turn right at a sandy turn. Continue another 800m to a right-turn followed shortly by gate (usually open). This is the first possible parking area, with space for maybe 4 vehicles. DO NOT PARK BLOCKING THE TRACK.
Walk or drive past the gate, south on the 4WD track (slightly rougher than the Henham Track) for approx 600m. If driving, park before you hit a low point / dry creek bed, again, making sure not to block the road. There is space for 3 vehicles here. Cross the dry creek and immediately turn left off the 4WD track and onto a walking track. Follow yellow markers and rock cairns heading East for approx 800m (20mins) until you reach the far right end of the cliff (Death Threat Buttress). From here it's about 20mins (a little longer with a heavy pack on) to get up to 'Tjuringa' Buttress and the walking is very steep, rough and loose (lots of scree).
Take a lot of care as there are lots of very big loose boulders that could cause some nasty injuries! (keep about 10-15 feet between you in case someone dislodges a big loose rock)
Most routes have rap stations (as noted in the route descriptions) however some of the older routes are still walk offs which can take a while. Take care not to kick anything loose off if above other climbers.
All routes are described right to left, and you hit the cliff at the far right end, so this follows the order in which climbs will be encountered from the walk-in.© (jgoding)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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