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Description

A great range of sport climbing, particularly in the middle grades. The first series of buttresses are - while small - very compact rock and offer excellent climbing, and the further walls offer more length and flavor. Be warned however there is still a fair bit of loose rock around as many routes have not had lots of ascents so take care, and ensure you always wear a helmet, especially below other climbers.

PS there is a free PDF guide which is more up to date than this page located here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4sVnfPm_Um4QlZnYlh1ZWJhWjA (feel free to pass on any updates about this guide to josef.goding (at) gmail (dot) com

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Approach

From Halls Gap, drive approx 25km south along the bitumen road to Dunkeld. Turn right (east) onto the dirt, cross a small bridge, wind your way up and over the Serra Range (3.9km), then turn right onto the Henham track when it starts to flatten out. Take this for 5.6km north to road junction.

The Henham track has recently been re-graded by parks, and is currently ok with a 2wd vehicle, but can be also get very rocky and rough after periods of less maintenance. Many a car has bottomed out because the driver was fanging it too hard, so take it slow and watch out for rocks!

The car park is 5.6km north of the junction between the Serra Road and Henham track (S37 20.870 E142 29.052). The car park is: S37 18.345 E142 28.881 *Note there is now a small (3 car) parking spot just beside the dry river bed, which saves you a few minutes on the walk in & out. DO NOT BLOCK THE ROAD.

The cliff can be found in the Serra Range, around 10km south of Mt Rosea. Best access is (from Halls Gap) head south for 24.8km then turn right onto the Serra Track. Follow Serra Track for 3.9km up and over the range, down the other side and just as it starts to flatten out turn right onto the Henham track. Proceed roughly north for 4.9km, then turn right at a sandy turn. Continue another 800m to a right-turn followed shortly by gate (usually open). This is the first possible parking area, with space for maybe 4 vehicles. DO NOT PARK BLOCKING THE TRACK.

Walk or drive past the gate, south on the 4WD track (slightly rougher than the Henham Track) for approx 600m. If driving, park before you hit a low point / dry creek bed, again, making sure not to block the road. There is space for 3 vehicles here. Cross the dry creek and immediately turn left off the 4WD track and onto a walking track. Follow yellow markers and rock cairns heading East for approx 800m (20mins) until you reach the far right end of the cliff (Death Threat Buttress). From here it's about 20mins (a little longer with a heavy pack on) to get up to 'Tjuringa' Buttress and the walking is very steep, rough and loose (lots of scree).

Take a lot of care as there are lots of very big loose boulders that could cause some nasty injuries! (keep about 10-15 feet between you in case someone dislodges a big loose rock)

Most routes have rap stations (as noted in the route descriptions) however some of the older routes are still walk offs which can take a while. Take care not to kick anything loose off if above other climbers.

All routes are described right to left, and you hit the cliff at the far right end, so this follows the order in which climbs will be encountered from the walk-in.

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: The large left facing corner crack immediately right of 'Death Threat'

FA: Mark Poustie (Solo), 1993

Scary. Not called 'Death Threat' for no reason!

Start: Climbs the orange arete that catches your eye as you first hit the cliff line.

FA: Ross Taylor & Peter Canning, 1991

Same start as 'Dreamscape' but where it steps left at ledge continue straight up, finishing up big crack as for 'Death Threat'. Probably worth a star if 'Dreamscape' gets one.

FA: Ross Taylor & Adam Demmert, 25 Jul 2009

Good climbing on beautiful compact rock up a good line.

Start: tart perhaps 3 or 4m (?) left of 'Death Threat' at short corner capped by small roof with cracks on the left and right.

  1. 25m (21) Climb the short open book corner for about 4m then up right. Awkwardly up a few moves to gain and negotiate the steep crack through the bulge and weird hands off rest. Continue up the closed corner above for a few meters then move left and up more easily to belay on ledge (the crack is both well protected and climbs very well).

  2. 14m (18) Take the very thin seam (not the bigger crack that 'Death Threat' finishes up to the right) and traverse left below tiny roof. Up steep juggy arete to top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff (P1) & Josef Goding (P2), 25 Jan 2009

Starts a couple of metres right of 'Dreams of Ordinary Men'. Climb up shallow corner to roof, exiting out right side (careful around the big block) and up lovely cracked grey face above. At the ledge, take the thin crack of 'Dreamscape' but finish easily right into big crack at top.

FA: Ross Taylor & Adam Demmert, 25 Jul 2009

Sustained difficulty, some loose rock and sparse pro make this a daunting lead - however the climbing is excellent.

Start: Just left of 'Dreamscape' is a corner, this route starts just left of that at small rib.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter & Glen Donohue, 1991

Good varied climbing.

Start: NOT SURE WHERE THIS STARTS??? SOMEWHERE NEAR WHITE WOMAN?

  1. 23m (18) Step left above overhang at top of groove.

  2. 12m (-) Steeply up crack on arete. Step up right at bulge, then up and right more easily.

FA: Chris Baxter, Glen Donohue (Alr) & Wayne Maher, 1991

Start: Start at the back of the chimney left of the 'Death Threat' buttress.

  1. 15m (-) Up the right hand corner at the back of the chimney gully, then amble up the wall on the right to belay under the finger crack.

  2. 10m (18) The finger crack

FA: James McIntosh & Kevin Lindorff, 26 Jan 2009

Great line, great climbing.

Start: Up high in the gully up and left of 'Death Threat'.

FA: Melanie Macintosh & James McIntosh, 1991

Located in the gully of 'White Woman' (16). You can either scramble up on the left hand side of the gully to reach the start of White Woman, or take this route on the right hand side as the 1st pitch and White Woman as the 2nd.

Facing White Woman from the main path, walk uphill on the right hand side until you reach a chimney, about 8 m high. Start climbing the chimney until you reach the ledge (grade 9). Nice splits with good protection. Then head to the left and up to the start of White Woman (very easy climbing).

FA: Bernd Schiffer & Phil Sidaway, 2 Nov 2014

Takes the crack system at the left end of the White Woman buttress.

FA: Dave Shelton & Ian Smith, Mar 2015

(trad route) on the face left of White Woman; Around left from Blackfellabis a right facing corner with a fist sized crack in the back. Up this for 5 m then step round left and up the left facing corner for 5m. Step left around the roof and up. Take the face then arête to the top. Protection is adequate.

FA: Dave Shelton & Mandy Williamson, 3 Sep 2016

Up, step left at narrowing, up to turn final roof on right.

Start: The chimney between 'Dreams of Ordinary Men' and 'Death Threat'.

FA: Mike Wust & Jeremy Boreham, 1998

Tricky Power Start will see more enjoyable climbing. Follow the bolts and make the traverse left before the top.

Start: Start under the roof moving right with the bolts.

FA: Damien Heath, 7 Jan 2010

Delicate climbing all the way. Always a foota when you need it...

Start: Start in the large undercut corner. Facing North. Two visible bolts.

FA: Damien Heath, 5 Jan 2010

Do you remember these guys eh?

Great variety of moves and user friendly.

Start: Start at undercut just right of mookie cracks, and begin climbing out to the right before swinging back.

FA: Damien Heath, 5 Dec 2009

A direct start to NDW. 3 new bolts, then joins NDW at it's 5th bolt.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, 12 Mar 2016

Up the discontinuous line

Start: Starts 2m to the left of the right arete on the north face of the buttress immediatly (10m) right of the landmark pinnacle.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1993

Same starting point as 'Mookie' (12). Go up the slab to the left through bush until you're in a corner. Go up the crack with saplings on every ledge. Head to the top right. Abseil from same anchor as 'Mookie' (12).

FA: Bernd Schiffer & Phil Sidaway, 1 Nov 2014

Interesting all the way. Well protected. "it's not quite a muffin, it's not quite a cookie - it's a mookie" (Ambia Scott)

Start: About 100m left of the 'Death Threat' buttress is a nice grey buttress (lowest point of the cliff) which faces 'Red Chilli Nights'. 'Mookie' starts about 5-10m from the lowest left hand blunt arete and a nice corner. You should be able to see the chains at the end.

FA: Ambia Scott, Diane Cotterell & Josef Goding, 17 Jan 2009

This is almost certainly an earlier version of 'Prince Albert'.

Start: Start on the back of Bomenya (?) on the southwest edge.

FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1990

The first line left of this pinnacle (?)

Start: really unsure about where this is. Probably somewhere near 'Prince Albert'.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft, Sue Key & Ed Neve, 1980

Start on the ledge adjacent to Glam Buttress. Stay to the left of line to find the way. There is a cross over right then back. The loose rock is not in play, its all to the right!

Start: West Side of Pillar. Opposite Not Drowing Waving.

FA: Damien Heath, 7 Jan 2010

Fun but short.

Start: About 15m west of "Mookie" is a 15m high pillar that's hard to miss. This route climbs the south (easiest) side. Appears to be a direct version of 'Moomba'.

FA: Josef Goding, Ambia Scott & Dianne C, 25 Jan 2009

Enjoyable thin face climbing up the East side of the pillar past 5 U bolts

Start: Starts down and right of 'Prince Albert' by about 5m.

FA: Michael O'Brien, 2009

Start underneath Wee Willy, anchoring the belayer to WW's first bolt if desired. Step right and climb around the underside of the pinnacle, moving up and right past two U-bolts, then back left to clip a FH (long-ish draw recommended) before pulling through the middle of the roof to a vague ledge and another U-bolt. Continue up through centre of final roof past another bolt.

FA: Dave Scarlett, 14 Mar 2016

Delicate sustained and varied climbing. Up the left side of the front of the buttress stepping left after the first bolt. Be wary of loose rock especially near the top. Use rap anchors above Sookie for decent.

FA: Steve Toal & Paula Greene, Jul 2012

The crack line on the left side of Tellumis Buttress (ca 40m back of Prince Albert). At a stance step right, then back left under the overhang. Rap Anchor at the top.

FA: SteveToal & Paula Greene, Jul 2012

Located on R facing orange wall that is 15m left of 'Prince Albert' pinnacle. Climbs cracks in wall just L of chimney.

  1. 30m (20) Crux. Up cracks for 20m then precariously weave around loose blocks (danger!) to ledge.

  2. 10m (10) Finish up corner on R to double U bolt anchors in notch. *If you only have a single rope you can rap down the opposite side of the pillar which is only 22m, not 40m

FA: Nick McKinnon, Marcel Geelen & Adam Demmert, 5 Jul 2009

Easier to bare than the night before. Start a couple of meters right of RCN. Technical face climbing on excellent rock with an absorbing crux! Joins RCN for its last bolt and anchor.

FFA: adam demmert, 18 Jul 2011

Climb orange streak on excellent rock with some spicy moves around the bulge and above.

Start: Start A few metres right of arête behind tree at orange streak.

FFA: adam demmert, 26 Jul 2009

A beaut!

Start: Starts on the front face of the un-named buttress (right of REM and left of Red chilli nights)

FA: Josef Goding, 25 Nov 2009

Good climbing, but some loose rock detracts! Has been retrobolted with the permission of the first ascentionist (including adding it's own new rap station).

Start: Starts just around left of the front of the buttress (about 10m uphill from "The Stolen Generation")

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Josef Goding, 9 Jul 2009

Set off up the black blank wall, climbing past 4 bolts to a good rest. Delicately right to the arette past another couple of bolts to arrive at the crux (bolt). Up, and pleasent airy moves to the top. Possible to climb past DBB and top out on the awesome platform above (if so, rap from DBB in notch).

Start: 5m right of Bella's Crack

The line in the shady gully left of Archie's 'Arete' and REM. Delicate moves off the ground (crux) lead to great jams, stemming, and underclings. Once on top of the flake climb up and left to a DBB. Single Rack up to #3 camalot. For full beard stroking rights, lead past the DBB to the notch, at run out grade 9. Another DBB awaits here..

Start: Large Flake/Crack left of REM

Fun little sport route up and over a couple of buldges. 'Steep' move up and over first buldge, a fun face, and then a final buldge before the DBB. Third climb in this shady gully - the perfect place to escape the summer heat.

Start: 1m left of Bella's Crack

Starts 5m right of murranji track.Up black slab to little rooflet climb right around rooflet then back left and straight up.Great moves with lots of fixed hangers and rests.Bound to be a crowd pleaser.Due to public demand this crowd pleaser is now a soft touch 18 enjoy.

Set by Joe Goding

FFA: anthony

FA: anthony & Joe Goding, 14 Dec 2016

An enjoyable and sustained outing. Starts approx 2m right of Maranjirri track and 2m left of Problem Solving over 0.05 at base of black wall. Stays right at the end. A few loose bits still on route right at the end (on the right hand side) so take care. These will get cleaned off soon.

CLOSED PROJECT! The first of Ariel's many new routes, this one has a very thin, heartbreaker finish (might be 22/23?). Up the black wall between Maranjarri track and Proeblem solving over 0.05, left at the end sharing the last bolt to finish at the anchor of Muranjarri Track.

Set by Ariel Pouillot Halperin, May 2018

Starting just left of a decent ledge about 30m uphill from Short Memory. 10 FH plus rap station. Slabby technical thin start leads to novelty detatched rock where a hands free rest is possible. Exposed steep final moves get the heart racing. Careful of lots of loose rock on the ledge left of the belay. 10 x FH

FA: Roark Muhlen & Josef Goding, Apr 2016

Starts about 4m further up the gully from UTDS. Up on the right-hand side of the first bolt, then begin trending left before reaching a thin foot-rail under the 3rd bolt. Delicately traverse left into the the UTDS line, possibly using a 60cm+ quickdraw on the 4th bolt to minimise drag. Up to a thought-provoking series of underclings and a committing finish directly above final bolt. Rappel anchor on back wall of ledge above.

FA: Dave Scarlett, 23 Apr 2016

To the right of and around the corner from Psychedelic Zucchini, directly under the rappel from that climb. Starts to the right of the first bolt. Reach left to clip first bolt, then up through difficult terrain on thin, angled crimps and poor feet (crux). Eases once the 3rd bolt is reached. Continue straight up the line of bolts, finishing through a series of impressive underclings. Rappel anchor on back wall of ledge above.

FA: Dave Scarlett, 23 Apr 2016

Named after seeing Josef’s giant zucchinis at camp. Starts beneath the arête to the right of Short Memory. Tricky slab moves then step right to the steep arête. Sustained climbing up the arête brings you to an overlap and thereafter the fun crux moves.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Josef Goding, 14 Mar 2016

Between Short Memory and Psychedelic Zucchini. CLOSED PROJECT - DO NOT CLIMB.

Sustained delicate face climbing with good pro. Shade until around midday. A new, lower set of anchors was added in 2016, removing the need for trad gear and making it possible to lower off down the route, rather than having to rappel from the platform at the start of Signe's Second Pitch into the gully around the corner.

Start: Starts at the foot of a grey ramp opposite R.E.M. (just right of a crack).

FA: Josef Goding & Damien Heath, 2009

From the ledge above Short Memory, Psychedelic Zucchini and Underhanded Tactics, head up and right, then traverse left under the orange section. Head up to slab, then up and left to anchors.

FA: Signe Stanbridge & Matt Spittal, 2012

A sustained 21, with thoughtful moves and a quite a few spaced bolts. 1) 40m 21 (12 bolts) As for Short Memory head up and left where it heads right to the crack (following grey fixed hangers). Confronting moves lead up to the crux, which gains the crack above. Nice climbing up the crack to a belay on the left. 2) 20m (six bolts) from belay step right and up through a tricky corner. Snake and weave up and around overlaps and bulges to the top anchor.

Set by Mike O'Brien equipped this route as a gift to one of his best mates

FA: Michele Domaneschi & Josef Goding, 2012

Starts as for "The Perfect Extraction" to ramp/ledge. Move right approx 5m to weakness just left of corner. Up fun, moderate face to a steep wild crux. Belay on pillar at top as for The Perfect Extraction. QTY Bolts TBC - 16?

FA: Paula Toal, Steve Toal & James McIntosh, Jul 2017

Great sustained well bolted climbing up the big wall just left of Short Memory on glued in staples. Take a medium length quickdraw for the bolt near the top of the initial ramp and a few others for higher up to assist with rope drag. A steep pumpy finish brings you to belay on a comfortable ledge with rap rings. Bring two ropes to get down!

Set by Joe Goding

FFA: Joe Goding

Starts below shallow yellow corner around 10m down and left of The Perfect Extraction. Up corner until you can traverse left on good holds. Up wall past big flake to some very thin moves, but step left to great sidepulls and around (left) then right to ledge and rap station.Or you can go direct at approx 23. *Note Josef plans to bolt a straighter finish removing the dog leg to the right at the end which may increase the length a bit.

FA: Josef Goding & Roark Muhlen, Apr 2016

This independent route climbs the stunning steepness of the Barista Buttress. Pumpy! Starts 3m right of the closed project, Birthday Barista. Climb the sustained face past 4 FHs and then move left to a stance in Birthday Barista (U-bolt). Traverse left (FH) with good feet to the arête and establish yourself on the steep prow. Finish past 4 more FHs and one U-bolt.

FA: Michael O’Reilly & Steve Chapman, Mar 2016

Climbs the first 3 bolts of Birthday Barrista, then directly up the technical face past 3 FH's. At this point join the finish of DSE past 4FH's and a RB.

FA: Michael O'Reilly, 2017

THIS IS STILL A CLOSED PROJECT. Take 16 quickdraws. Steep side pulling underclinging goodness. Sustained and wonderful.

Start: Starts around 30m below and right of "Thor" at a prominent crack just left of the steep blunt orange arete.(about 10-15m down and left of "The Perfect Extraction")

Set by Josef Goding equipped this route as a present to one of his best mates.

FA: Anthony Pattison (TBC), 2000

Start as for Birthday Barrista and continue up the crack from the 2nd bolt until it's possible to step right to the anchor above that route at about 26m. Take a full trad rack.

FA: Wendy Eden & Adam Demmert, 16 Apr 2009

Warning This route has a Death Block near the top, It should not be climbed till it has been removed

Sustained climbing up the wall left of Dreaming of Rehabilitation's crack (down and right of Thor). Approx 16 (?) fixed hangers lead to belay via a lot of very thin moves. 25m rap from 2 x FH with rings.

FA: David Shelton, Joe Goding & Mandy Williamson., Jul 2017

Pure funk. A feast of underclings and sidepulls with slopey facets for your feet. Sustained with a tricky finish past the last bolt.

Start: Takes the steep west face of Virgin Buttress 15m to the right of 'The Big Easy'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 24 Nov 2009

Bolts R of The Big Easy to same anchors.

FA: Scott Taylor & Simon Chapple, 2012

Easy slab climbing. Great 'Warm up' with interesting moves towards the top.

Start: In the big gully/ramp

FA: Soloed by Adam DemmertDamien Heath climbed bolted version - 03-11-2009, 20 Sep 2009

FFA: adam demmert, 20 Sep 2009

Great quality sustained and interesting. Some steep face climbing. A few small loose bits will probably come off in time, but will clean up with a little traffic to be fantastic.

Start: Starts about 5m right of 'Gulgurn Manja'.

FA: Josef Goding, 24 Nov 2009

Sustained and varied climbing. Well worthwhile as it but once all the loose rock is removed will be even better.

The route name means "Hands of Young People"

Start: Starts about 10m right of right leading corner (about 20m left of the big gully) at a grey/black slab.

FA: Josef Goding & Damien Heath, 2009

CLOSED PROJECT. Cleaned and equipped June 2018. Starts about 3m left of Gulun Manja, just right of the huge right leaning chossy corner. Up face then bust a move left through overlap and onto face. Trending left then up break just before arete, curve right then back left at sickle shaped orange corner. Right on steep face then straight up between Moon Safari and Gulun Manja to join their anchor. Has been equipped so as not to take away from Moon Safari's exposure / feel (the bolts are too far right to be clipped from that route).

Set by Joe Goding, 10 Jun

Sustained and slinky. Great fun, consistently excellent climbing.

Start: Starts up the steep dark grey slab about 5m right of Jardawadjali (just left of the water streak)

FA: Ingvar Lidman & Josef Goding, 27 Oct 2009

Sustained and thin. Very good.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 3 Nov 2009

Some good climbing but a bit inconsistant with some sections of loose rock remaining. Needs a good clean to be more enjoyable.

Start: this area is located around 250m up and left of 'Red Chilli Nights'. A big gully on the right side of the wall with a dark slab is a major feature. Starts 5m right of ramp at left end of cliff (about 25m down and left of

  1. 28m (16) Tend right into seam, then follow this left and up to ledge.

  2. 50m (17) Follow ledge left to steep black wall just left of corner. Up this to ledge. Step right into corner and up corner (great stemming and laybacking) to big ledge.

  3. 50m (12) Enjoyable but poorly protected face climbing to big ledge, easily up wall above this to belay on very top

FA: Josef Goding (P1, P3) & Damien Heath (P2), 17 Oct 2009

1 15
2 18

Good line and fun climbing, with great views.

Starts left along the cliff approximately another 10m from "Talisman" where a gully leads steeply up to the photographers ledge with a black slab on it’s right hand side. Start here.

  1. 33m (17*) Up sustained technical black slab past 10 U-Bolts and fixed hangers. Steepens before rap station on small ledge. Continue up and right on good holds through steeper terrain to gain enormous "Squash Court" ledge. (The climb originally ended the first pitch at the first rap station, at grade 15, and then used a long second pitch to get to the top, but this is not recommended as it involves huge rope drag and an inferior belay position.)

  2. 28m (18**) Blast up the arête (tricky swing left where the holds run out) to fun exposed easier climbing above on superb compact rock. 6 bolts from Squash Court belay.

From top, 60m rappel to ground, carefully 30m to 1st belay, or 25m to Squash Court. 33m rappel from Squash Court to ground, but it is possible to swing up the ramp left of the start of the climb to reduce this to 30m. Requires 15 quickdraws as described, or 11 if ending pitch 1 at the first rappel station.

FA: Josef Goding & Adrian Koneig, Jul 2012

“When he had created the beautiful sandstone ranges of Gariwerd, Bunjil often took the form of Werpil the Eagle so that he could view his work.” Perfect rock for the area. Start from the upper (LH) end of the slopping terrace (The Squash Court) that’s almost 30m above the ground between the starts of Totemic Arete (P1) and Moon Safari at DBB (25m to ground). Head up-right through wide corner scoop to the bottom of the gently overhanging orange wall. Follow FHs up, finishing at the DBB of Totemic Arete (55m to ground or rap 20m to DBB on The Squash Court).

Set by Paul Geil, 26 Sep 2015

FA: Paul Geil & Joe Goding, 26 Sep 2015

A tribute to a great friendship, the spirit of generosity and a shared passion for adventure. Consistently engaging, good climbing on good rock. Starts 3m right of (on the big black sloping ledge we’ve dubbed the “squash court”). Delicate moves up the blunt arete to orange headwall, up, up and away - belay on big block just right of Werpil/Totemic Arete’s anchors.Number of bolts TBC?

FA: Josef Goding & Paul Geil November, Nov 2015

Paul Geil’s thin sustained face climb starts at the bottom of the squash court. Up the wall ducking and weaving a little to finish up the buldge at the end and rap station. Either rap all the way to the ground or back to the belay and rap again to ground. *Only the first bolt or two have been installed.

Set by Paul Geil, Nov 2015

Enjoyable well protected face climbing, starts on the first belay of The Apology / 1967. The name is a reference to the Aborigional seasons - Chinnip one is for cold, cockatoos and early wildflowers. Up the first two bolts of 1967 then head up and right to rap station on chockstone above chimney. Belay here. Tricky moves up right then back left and up the wall past 11 glue in staples to finish at the rap station of 1967 on ledge. Rap 28m back to belay or 50m to ground, or 33m to ledge where The Apology 1st pitch anchors are. There is also 2 u bolts at the base of the climb to belay from.

FA: Joe Goding & anthony, 9 Jul 2017

Starts at the ledge (3m right of "The Apology" anchor). Up and right diagonally to shallow corner, up just right of this. Near top step left up steep bulge to finish on sloping ledge with it's own rap station (2 x glue in staples) *Number of bolts TBC

FA: Dave Shelton & Mandy Williamson, 4 Sep 2016

1 18
2 19

Starts 5m right of back in black. Look for curving line of bolts. 2nd pitch is technical and excellent.

FA: Joe Goding, Metani Rooms, Matthew Trebilco & Mark Beart., 2013

A nice bit of climbing on the attractive short Arapilean wall below "The Apology". Start 4m right of "Sorry".

FA: Paul Geil, Carol Lunny & Josef Goding, 3 Sep 2016

A direct start to an apology. Start 5m R of P1 of The Apology. 3FHs conveniently finishing at its P1 anchors.

FA: Paul Geil & Roark Muhlen, 26 Jan 2015

Starts at the 1st below (on ledge) of "The Apology). Head straight up trending left to small rooflet, up the right side of this then traverse left. Up then left when you hit the sloping ledge, up then back right to independent rap station (2 x staples). 30m (rop stretcher) rap to ledge. *Number of bolts TBC

FA: Josef Goding & Paul Geil, 4 Sep 2016

Straight up the steepest section of this wall through two bulges. Starts at the ake 3m right of Back in Black (and 1m right of Treaty.) Balance across right into the line at the rst FH and then climb directly up the line through two bulges. Nice compression moves on immaculate rock at the top. Once you gain the small ledge system, climb easily up and left to the rst FH on Free Passage and traverse left to the rap anchors above Back in Black P1. (8 bolts)

FA: Michael O'Reilly, 2017

A really nice long outing with a low delicate crux on good rock with good bolt spacing. Approx 20 quickdraws? Starts just right of Back In Black on slab. Delicately up slab and face to join "Free Passage" for the last 3 bolts and belay there. 42m abseil.

FA: David Shelton, Roark Muhlen & anthony, 2017

1 17
2 19

Starts at black crack / water streak about 10m uphill from The Apology. Tricky moves (about 17-) up corner to belay on slab. Second pitch traverses left then up blunt arete through steepening (some good fun laybacks) to belay on ledge above. Take two ropes to get off. Be careful with loose rock on 2nd pitch. Great exposure.

FA: Nick Nash, Joe Goding, Matthew Trebico, Mark Beart (P1) & Mark Beart, Apr 2013

Follow 13 FHs through a couple of bulges to DBB.

FA: Paul Geil & Josef Goding, 25 Dec 2014

Means “Lightning Man” in the local tounge/folklore. A good sustained face climb with some lovely thin moves. Starts up a face 4m left of Back in Black 1) 30m Up face ducking and weaving around some small holds and slinky moves, follow the bolts and enjoy the ride! Rap off at bolt station on ledge at base of crack.

Set by Josef Goding

FA: Joe Goding, Apr 2013

A fun trad corner of bridging and jamming with good gear. Starts off the belay of Namarron and heads up the obvious corner above. Take a reasonable rack (probably best to haul it up after leading Namarron).

FA: Josef Goding, Dave Shelton & Mandy Williamson, Jan 2015

Starts about 5m up and left of Namarron at a small rock ledge with a tree for some belay shade. A slabby start leads to sustained steepness, eventually reaching a large ledge, and then up and right from there is a wild and airy finish. Note it's in the shade after about 3pm. 45m rap from rings. Descent possible with a single 60m rope by rapelling to the Namarron anchors, or continuing up (easy scramble) to the ledge above, and rappelling from the anchors there down to the Orb Weaver anchors.

FA: Josef Goding & Dave Shelton, 21 Mar 2015

Starts at the left end of a car-sized boulder, about 10m left of Dreamcatcher. Mantle start left of first bolt, up slab to large undercling flake and through that to ledge. Easily up and right along ledge then up a steep section (crux) until climbing eases, and finally weave back left under the giant orb, finishing up left of it. Anchors on right wall, 26m rappel to ground.

From the anchor on top of Orb Weaver step right around arete and go straight up using easy steps. Follow the narrow crack to next ledge. Slightly run-out easy scramble for the last few meters

FA: Tara Laursen, 18 Dec 2016

Easy climbing interrupted by an awkward squeeze chimney. Up the corner above the Orb Weaver anchors. Beware horrifyingly loose rock around left of the chimney, preventing any avoiding the squeeze.

FA: Dave Scarlett & Tara Laursen, 17 Dec 2016

Starts just right of The Stars Look Down, takes the right leaning seam. Pull up directly beneath the first bolt, then move up right to make the second bolt. Follow the line. 35m rap.

FA: Ian Smith & David Shelton, Mar 2016

Engaging . Sports climbing for multi-pitch trad climbers. Starts as songline for the first 3 fixed hangers. Unclip the first bolt after for less drag.Then traverses right across face on ubolts till you reach the vertical crack 2m up vertical crack reach across left on good holds to clip 2nd u bolt. Then heads straight up following u bolts up to first set of lower offs 1- u bolt 1-fixed hanger with twisted shakle .Grade 18 to this point 8 bolts +2 for lower offs. Note extentsion which is 1 u bolt till the next set of lower offs is 19 l will be removing the first set of lower offs soon. l would recommend a 70m rope so you can get back to the ground instead of the ledge.

FFA: anthony, Ariel Pouillot Halperin & Joe Goding, 10 Jun

FA: anthony, 10 Jun

starts on slab left side of pillar follow u bolts through steep lower section .Continue following u bolts to top .l still have to clean some loose rock from the climb so please stay off until complete.

A great outing with varied styles, solid rock and good bolting. Starts as for song line, straight up at first bolt (Songline traversed right here). Thin face Climbing eventuatleads to good rest. Delicate side pulls then powerful moves through steep bulge and tricky mantle. Up corner then move left and up to rap station. 27m abseil.

Set by David Shelton

FA: Joe Goding, Davis Shelton, Roark Muhlen & David Sztrajt, 10 Dec 2017

Starts 40m left of Namarron, at the base of a right-ward facing orange corner. Up the corner (4 bolts) to move around left spectacularly under the blocky roof/bulge (bolt on headwall) to the arête. Up past another bolt to the double bolt rap anchor (rings) at 20 m. Either belay here or keep on trucking via another four bolts and a bit of a run out on easier ground to the double ring anchor.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & James Scott-Bohana, May 2014

Good climbing on good rock with good gear.

Start: Starts about 100m down and right of 'Carmina Burana' at an attractive left leading corner crack, with a ledge just off the ground.

  1. 25m (15) Up and left along the big corner. Belay at ledge.

  2. 30m (17) Left on ledge then up corner to reach big orange corner. Left and up this to finish dramatically up steeply on huge jugs just right of corner crack. Double bolt rap station. 30m to ground.

FA: Michael O'Briwn (P1) & Josef Goding (P2), 9 Jul 2009

Great adventure route!

Rap down 'Carmina Burana'

Start: Start on slab below big crack through roof above. This route needs trad gear

  1. 36m (20) Start atop flake against wall - intricate slab climbing past 4 carrot bolts and gear, trending left. Place some good gear and climb left of arête and small corner to clip 5th carrot bolt to finish on ledge and rap anchor. 26/6/2009 Adam and Ross

  2. 35m (22) Up tricky slab past carrot bolts to big bombay crack in roof. Climb through roof with great exposure and up continuation of crack. At top of crack head left up diagonal crack to anchor 20/9/2009 Adam and Ross

Set by adam demmert

FFA: adam demmert & ross taylor, 26 Jul 2009

FFA: adam demmert & ross taylor, 20 Sep 2009

The first climb of the area.

Start: Climbs the major corner in the middle of dreamtime wall left of a dramatic, unclimbed right angle flake line.

  1. 45m (16) Up right wall of orange corner. Left round overhang and traverse left to foot of corner.

  2. 25m (6) To tree then left line up corner to ledge of left.

  3. 30m (17) Delicately up, then crack.

Grand

FA: Ingvar Lidman & Muki Woods, Mar 2009

Climb the slabby rib 3m to the right of 'Murinbungo'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, Mar 2009

Start as for 'Morgana'. After the first bolt step into the peapod then onwards up the slabby wall.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, Mar 2009

The crux (P1) has serious ground fall potential.

Start: Start in a short groove.

  1. 30m (19) Up groove then wall up and left into prominent corner left of 'Goorialla'.

  2. 30m (19) Continue up corner and up right hand line. Step left at top.

  3. 30m (19) Beautiful grey wall right of corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve (Alt), 1974

Start: From between 'Burnum Burnum' and 'Murinbungo' climb 5m to rounded blocks.

  1. 25m (18) Left for 6m on lip of bulge, then up to belay on 'Burnum Burnum'.

  2. 30m (18) Diagionally right, then up to crack through overhang just left of arete and so to ledge on arete.

  3. 30m (18) Left and up wall

FA: Keith Lockwood & Nick White (Alt), 1992

Start: Wall 3m right of big tree near 'Walunda'

  1. 10m (20) Climb the wall then bulge, up right to ledge.

  2. 35m (20) Up wall to ledge below smoother rock.

  3. 35m (20) Up crack in headwall and on.

FA: Keith Lockwood & David Gairns, 1988

Start: Just right of 'Bunjil' is a bulge.

  1. 40m (15) Climb the bulge, veer left up wall to left facing corner. Up left wall to ledge above corner.

  2. 20m (15) Up the beautiful wall

  3. 50m (15) Up the crack and up.

FA: Keith Lockwood & David Gairns, 1974

Good moves but some suss rock and spaced mediocre pro detract.

Start: Thin crack about 12m right of 'Quinkan'

  1. 40m (16) Step right, then left on to bulge. Up crack line using the wall to the left when needed. Belay at bleached ledge.

  2. 40m (17) Up twin lines, right right at overhang and finish up wall. Belay on ledge. Move left (facing the cliff) to rap off "Rainbow Serpent"'s anchor. Suggest stay roped up for this!

FA: Peter McKeand & Keith Lockwood, 1974

Start: Superb clean wall between 'Quinkan' and 'Bunjil'. Seriously low on good gear however.

FA: Steve Monks & Dave Mudie, 1988

Start: In the big corner on the right side of 'Tjuringa' Buttress

  1. 35m (17) At bushes go left and up wall, then back to corner and up to tree.

  2. 35m (17) Chimney to top. Scramble (roped) to anchor above 'Rainbow Serpent'.

FA: Ed Neve & Keith Lockwood (Alt), 1974

A strong (crack) line from half height but needs a direct start to be its best. The originally climbed entered via the start of 'Quinkan' followed by a traverse left, and a direct start (MGDS) was finally added some 30 years later!

Start: On the right side of 'Tjuringa' buttress is a big corner. This (and Quinkan) start up this.

  1. 20m (16) Up corner to small ledge.

  2. 52m (18) Traverse left to line.

  3. 45m (17) Up the crack in the middle of 'Tjuringa' Buttress

FA: Mathew Taylor, Kevin Lindorff & Reg Marron, 1972

While the first pitch is worthwhile, the second pitch offers consistently excellent climbing right on the arete which is beautiful compact grey stone.

Start: on the right side of 'Tjuringa' Buttress below orange roof.

  1. 32m (20) steep technical finger crack climbing up to and right of orange roof to steep powerful bridging, then up left past flake to ledge. Up wall past more bolts tending left after about 15m to belay on ledge. Take a bunch of wires, (BD) cams #0.3 to #.75, one #2 and lots of (about 18) quickdraws.

  2. 30m (22) swing up onto left side of arete and up delicate grey wall to orange steepness. Powerful thin moves lead to more moderate but delicate and super enjoyable arete that seems never to finish! Generally regarded as 3 stars by everyone who's done it so far. James McIntosh commented "it's the best arete in the Grampians".

pitch 2 left hand variant. From belay, head up to third bolt. Traverse up and left to morning glory's overlap, through this and up fantastic vertical crack & face trending R to join P2 at the belay. Great climbing, fantastic rock. ~grade 18.

FA: Josef Goding, 25 Jan 2009

Starts about 4-5m left of Rainbow Serpent on the left side of an orange scoop.

P1 (35m, 23): Move left past first bolt onto front of the buttress then up past another bolt to easier ground. Up to the roof and follow the line awkwardly around the left edge. Belay in the line at a reasonable ledge.

P2 (30m, 17): The crack up centre of the buttress, as for Morning Glory.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 28 Feb 2009

Super quality first pitch (sport) with trad 16 second pitch of lesser quality but still well worthwhile.

Start: Starts on the left arete of 'Tjuringa' Buttress

  1. 32m (21) Up the steep arete that looks like it should be about 5 grades harder! Optional 'Camelot' one or big wires after last bolt.

  2. 30m (16) Straight up the arete to natural belay. Move to west side of buttress to rap over 'Rainbow Serpent'

Pete Mills was heard to say "I'd crawl a mile over broken glass to climb that" Paul Geil was heard to say "it's probably the best 21 in the Grampians" many others have muttered it's excellent without such bold statements. Whatever the case it's worth the (admittedly steep, loose & crappy) walk.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, Feb 2009

  1. 15m (15) Climb First Pitch of 'Kunapipi' to belay on ledge before chimney.

  2. 20m (19) Traverse wall to right on trad gear to join 'Pot of Gold' below roof. Follow PoG to anchor

FA: Nick McKinnon, Marcel Geelen & Adam Demmert, 4 Jul 2009

Start: On the left of 'Tjuringa' Buttress is a corner crack. This climbs it.

  1. 35m (15) Up the corner crack, finishing up chimney.

  2. 35m (15) Crux. Chimney to top of Chock stones. Left on to wall below overhand and over it.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve (alt), 1972

Good climbing on generally excellent rock. Trad protection for the crux section (the first half of the first pitch) is adequate rather than abundant.

Vincent Lingiari, AM (1908 – 21 January 1988), was an Aboriginal rights activist who was appointed as a Member of the Order of 'Australia' for his services to the Aboriginal people. Lingiari was a member of the Gurindji people.

Vincent Lingiari confronted the vast economic and political forces that were arrayed against him and his people. In doing so, he won a victory that is one of the most outstanding achievements in the history of the struggle for the recognition of Indigenous people, their rights and responsibilities in the land, and their ability to practice their law, language and culture.

Start: About 50m up left of 'Tjuringa' Buttress is a low series of small roofs forming an 'inverted staircase' (starting about 2m above the ground and rising from right to left). Start immediately right of this at a small rock cairn.

  1. 35m (19) Up for about 7m, then move left a little, up another few moves, then traverse left a couple of metres. Continue up leftward aiming for the base of a reasonably prominent line up the face. Gain this, then savour the delightful climbing up it to a good ledge beneath a short thin face crack.

  2. 15m (17) Straight up. Descend from the top by scrambling about 50m to the right and locating the top of the 'Tjuringa' Buttress –there is a rap station here and another half way down (two 35m raps to the ground).

FA: Kevin Lindorff & James McIntosh, 24 Jan 2009

Climb to overhang and up crack above.

Start: Starts a few meters right of 'Never Never' at a thin crack beside a large tree.

FA: Mathew Taylor & Chris Baxter, 1976

Climb the corner crack forming the left boundary of the wall.

Start: Near the left end of the cliff is a recessed wall above a ledge about 15m off the ground.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mathew Taylor

Good climbing on sound rock

Start: The corner right of 'Black Madonna'

FA: Chris Baxter & Mathew Taylor, 1976

Insignificant.

Start: Just right of descent gully at left end of cliff.

FA: Wayne Maher & Graham Gittins, 1993

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