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Description:© (jgoding)

Super quality first pitch (sport) with trad 16 second pitch of lesser quality but still well worthwhile.

Start: Starts on the left arete of 'Tjuringa' Buttress

  1. 32m (21) Up the steep arete that looks like it should be about 5 grades harder! Optional 'Camelot' one or big wires after last bolt.

  2. 30m (16) Straight up the arete to natural belay. Move to west side of buttress to rap over 'Rainbow Serpent'

Pete Mills was heard to say "I'd crawl a mile over broken glass to climb that" Paul Geil was heard to say "it's probably the best 21 in the Grampians" many others have muttered it's excellent without such bold statements. Whatever the case it's worth the (admittedly steep, loose & crappy) walk.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ingvar Lidman, 2009


Located in Dreamtime Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -37.313900,142.489825

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 Community registered grade
***Joe Goding
21 ** ** ACA Route Register
22 ***Cameron McKenzie

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 80%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped crux difficult hard beautiful ripper nice good sweet classy great classic awesome runout committing rest awkward arete traverse slabby balancy crack

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