Site navigation

Section navigation

Description:© (jgoding)

While the first pitch is worthwhile, the second pitch offers consistently excellent climbing right on the arete which is beautiful compact grey stone.

Start: on the right side of 'Tjuringa' Buttress below orange roof.

  1. 32m (20) steep technical finger crack climbing up to and right of orange roof to steep powerful bridging, then up left past flake to ledge. Up wall past more bolts tending left after about 15m to belay on ledge. Take a bunch of wires, (BD) cams #0.3 to #.75, one #2 and lots of (about 18) quickdraws.

  2. 30m (22) swing up onto left side of arete and up delicate grey wall to orange steepness. Powerful thin moves lead to more moderate but delicate and super enjoyable arete that seems never to finish! Generally regarded as 3 stars by everyone who's done it so far. James McIntosh commented "it's the best arete in the Grampians".

pitch 2 left hand variant. From belay, head up to third bolt. Traverse up and left to morning glory's overlap, through this and up fantastic vertical crack & face trending R to join P2 at the belay. Great climbing, fantastic rock. ~grade 18.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Josef Goding, 2009

Location:  

Located in Dreamtime Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -37.313900,142.489825

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Community registered grade
21 ***Cameron McKenzie
22 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 63%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Rainbow Serpent (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.